DiCaprio in Gatsby’s Iconic White Suit

Leonardo DiCaprio as Jay Gatsby in The Great Gatsby (2013).

Leonardo DiCaprio as Jay Gatsby in The Great Gatsby (2013).

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Leonardo DiCaprio as Jay Gatsby, eagerly romantic millionaire and bootlegger

Long Island, NY, Summer 1922

Film: The Great Gatsby
Release Date: May 10, 2013
Director: Baz Luhrmann
Costume Designer: Catherine Martin

Background

Last Tuesday, BAMF Style reflected on Californication‘s tribute to The Great Gatsby with its second season character of Lew Ashby; now, let’s focus on a more literal adaptation when Baz Luhrmann directed his lavish big-screen version a few years ago.

The turning point in the story is when the two old flames Jay Gatsby and Daisy Buchanan are finally reunited in Nick’s humble cottage. Gatsby isn’t dressed for such modest surroundings, wearing – as F. Scott Fitzgerald describes:

…Gatsby, in a white flannel suit, silver shirt, and gold-colored tie, hurried in.

This decidedly loud outfit would certainly make an impression on the woman who last saw you five years ago wearing a drab army uniform. As a romantic member of the nouveau riche, Gatsby doesn’t realize that millionaires don’t need to dress like millionaires every day, as he proves with the pink linen three-piece suit he wears for the film’s climactic scene.

What’d He Wear?

Gatsby’s iconic white suit is actually an off-white shade of ivory. Appropriately for summer, it is made from a comfortable lightweight linen blend. As we later discover, it is actually a three-piece suit but he opts for only the jacket and trousers worn with a contrasting waistcoat when reuniting with Daisy.

GATSBY

Gatsby oversees the day’s flower delivery.

The suit’s single-breasted jacket has a three-button front that rises midway up the torso. He tends to keep the top two buttons fastened while standing, always adopting the pose of a learned gentleman but still looking too highbrow to be natural. The jacket also has peak lapels with straight gorges and stitched edges. There is a buttonhole through the left lapel that Gatsby surprisingly wears devoid of any actual daisies.

GATSBY

The jacket’s shoulders are padded with roped sleeveheads that end with 4-button cuffs that match the white buttons on the jacket front. A long single rear vent ends at DiCaprio’s waist and is clearly reinforced on the left side to flap over the right.

GATSBY

Gatsby’s hip pockets are slanted with flaps like the traditional country hacking jacket. The welted breast pocket also slants slightly inward with a deep space for the pocket square, as seen when he comes in from the rain. Indeed, this “iceberg” effect (if you’ll excuse the Leo pun) shows us just how deep the tobacco brown paisley silk handkerchief is stuffed down the pocket.

GATSBY

All wet.

The suit’s flat front trousers have the era’s characteristic long rise that totally hides the waistband under the waistcoat; thus, all we know about the trousers’ closure is that it has a straight front fly. It’s likely that Gatsby wears his trousers with suspenders as he does with his pink suit.

GATSBY

Is that your hand in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?

When aiming for his “affected gentleman” pose, Gatsby often places his hand in the slanted left front pocket of the trousers, crossing the straight long right leg of the trousers over the left and showing off his footwear under the short break of the plain-hemmed bottoms.

GATSBY

Although the suit was manufactured with a matching waistcoat, Gatsby opts for a more casual contrasting vest in a rich tobacco brown linen with a subtle herringbone pattern. It is definitely single-breasted with about five or six brown horn buttons between the high-fastening top and the notched bottom.

GATSBY

The mannered Gatsby learned to unbutton his jacket when he sits.

As Gatsby rarely wears the jacket totally unbuttoned, it’s difficult to ascertain more detail about the vests.

SPOILER ALERT! During Gatsby’s funeral, he wears the exact same outfit but with the suit’s matching vest. Like the contrasting brown waistcoat, it is single-breasted with no lapels.

R.I.P. Gatsby :(

R.I.P. Gatsby :(

Interestingly, Gatsby wears the same shirt and tie with the white suit for his own funeral as he does for the meeting with Daisy. Perhaps this was the filmmakers’ way of signifying that Gatsby’s fate was sealed as soon as he and Daisy reunited, setting them both on a literal collision course that resulted in Myrtle’s fatal car accident and Gatsby’s death from Wilson’s murder-suicide. Perhaps.

The “silver shirt” described by Fitzgerald is reflected here with a blue-gray woven silk shirt. The large collar has long points and a moderate spread, further narrowed under the tie knot by a steel barbell-style collar pin. The shirt also has a front placket and single cuffs. His cuffs are fastened by a silver set of links that appear to match the “sunburst” pattern on his ring.

GATSBY

Hand to hand.

Gatsby’s tie is a more interesting variation of the simple “gold tie” mentioned in Fitzgerald’s text. DiCaprio wears a tie in bright orange silk with sets of thin double red stripes crossing from left-down-to-right.

GATSBY

A pensive Gatsby.

Gatsby’s suits all have short breaks, meaning that his footwear receive considerably more screen time than many other suits on film. Here, Gatsby sports a pair of two-tone spectator shoes with light tan toe caps, heel caps, and 4-eyelet tabs with gray single-piece vamps. A pair of plain light tan dress socks nicely connect the two-tone spectator shoes and white suit trousers.

GATSBY

Once again, we meet Gatsby’s mysterious and supposedly custom-made stainless wristwatch. Initially supposed by some to be an anachronistic Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, a Watches In Movies post indicated that the watch seen on DiCaprio’s left wrist was made just for him, but more details about the rectangular white-dialed watch remain a mystery at this time.

GATSBY

There’s a clock right next to him, but a dramatic flick of the wrist is a much more showy way of checking the time.

The 1920s saw a major wristwatch boom as returning soldiers from the front brought this more convenient timekeeping method to civilian life, with wristwatches outnumbering the venerable pocket watch 50-to-1 by 1930.

Brooks Brothers’ “Gatsby Collection”

As part of their “Gatsby Collection” tie-in to promote their collaboration with the production (and the original author), Brooks Brothers developed their “Fitzgerald Fit” to combine 1920s fashion fads to 2010s fits. Wisely, the company developed its own variations of the iconic white and pink suits for sale.

GATSBY

Unfortunately for potential buyers, the only item from this outfit still remaining for sale is the trouser.

Although many details differ from the suit seem in the movie (lapel width, number of jacket buttons, vent style, trouser height, etc.), the “Gatsby Collection” suit is a fine step in the direction of promoting better seasonal dress among the younger generations. The commercially-available version of the suit was made from “linen woven at Ireland’s Baird McNutt mill” with a “traditional herringbone pattern throughout”.

Redford vs. DiCaprio

As with the post comparing Robert Redford’s pink suit and DiCaprio’s pink suit, it’s worth comparing the white suits each gentleman wore for this scene.The costume designers for each film took a little more wiggle room with the pink suits, but we see more consistency here as both films strove to incorporate Fitzgerald’s “white flannel suit, silver shirt, and gold-colored tie” direction with then-contemporary styles.

The Suit – Redford and DiCaprio both wear solid white-toned linen suits with single-breasted jackets and flapped hip pockets. However, Redford’s wide notch lapels and pocket flaps are decidedly more a reflection of 1974 than 1922. DiCaprio’s suit looks trim with its high-buttoning front, slim peak lapels, and sporty silhouette. As the decade continued, the large fit, double-breasted waistcoat, and pleated trousers seen on Redford would become more popular, but DiCaprio’s slim suit and contrast vest show a more original take on the look. Advantage: DiCaprio, by a nose.

The Shirt – Both Redford and DiCaprio wear metallic blue silk shirts with a silver sheen, long collar, front placket, and cuff links. They both even wear silver collar pins! To avoid nitpicking, let’s call this a draw.

The Tie – Redford’s Gatsby wears a solid gold tie that manages to scream 1970s with both its duller tone and thickness. DiCaprio, on the other hand (or neck), wears a much brighter orange tie with an interesting stripe pattern and a slim width that one would’ve seen on a gentleman during this transitional period between the WWI era and the Roaring Twenties. Advantage: DiCaprio, even though it isn’t a literal interpretation of “gold”.

The Shoes – Redford wears plain white shoes with cream socks. DiCaprio wears two-tone spectator shoes with tan socks. Advantage: DiCaprio, for both uniqueness and period-correct style.

The Accessories – Each man keeps it lighter than usual here, with only pocket squares and cuff links showing a difference between Gatsby’s usual watch and ring. Redford’s Gatsby wears a metallic blue pocket square that evokes his shirt and a gold pocket watch in his vest. DiCaprio’s pocket square instead draws out his contrasting vest, and the custom-made wristwatch reflects both his military status and nouveau riche youth. Advantage: DiCaprio.

Which look do you prefer?

Which look do you prefer?

Unlike the neck-and-neck battle of the pink suits, DiCaprio’s interpretation of Gatsby’s white suit is the clear winner here, but Redford still deserves some solid points.

Go Big or Go Home

I typically hate umbrellas, but Gatsby really knows how to use his with style.

GATSBY

Luckily for Nick, Daisy, and the legions of umbrella-carrying butlers, the rain stopped in mid-afternoon.

How to Get the Look

Meeting up with an ex-girlfriend for an amiable coffee date? Blow her socks off with this ensemble. She might expect you to have a sprawling Long Island mansion though, so make sure you put your questionably-gained money where your mouth is when presenting yourself.

GG13White-crop

  • White ivory linen blend Brooks Brothers suit, consisting of:
    • Single-breasted jacket with peak lapels, 3-button front, welted breast pocket, slanted flapped hip pockets, 4-button cuffs, and long single rear vent
    • Flat front high-rise trousers with slanted front pockets and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Tobacco brown linen herringbone single-breasted vest with notched bottom
  • Blue-gray “sheen” silk shirt with long collar, front placket, and single cuffs
  • Orange silk necktie with sets of double red L-down-R stripes
  • Steel barbell-style collar pin
  • Silver “sunburst” cuff links
  • Light tan & gray two-tone leather 4-eyelet spectator shoes
  • Light tan dress socks
  • Silver pinky ring with dark “starbust” face, worn on right pinky
  • Stainless wristwatch with a rectangular white face and stainless deployable-clasp bracelet, worn on left wrist
  • Tobacco brown paisley silk pocket square

If you think contrasting waistcoats are “too English” (they’re not, and that’s also not a bad thing) or you want to shake up this look for your funeral, you can opt for a matching suit vest instead.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie. You should read F. Scott Fitzgerald’s original book, even if you already read it in high school.

I’m also a solid advocate of Maureen Corrigan’s book, So We Read On: How The Great Gatsby Came to Be and Why It Endures, which analyzes the book and its legacy. It should be required reading for scholars of The Great Gatsby, F. Scott Fitzgerald, literature, or the 1920s.

Californication – Lew Ashby’s Light Gray Date Suit

Callum Keith Rennie as Lew Ashby on Californication (Episode 2.09: "La Ronde", 2008).

Callum Keith Rennie as Lew Ashby on Californication (Episode 2.09: “La Ronde”).

Vitals

Callum Keith Rennie as Lew Ashby, maverick record producer and rock legend

Los Angeles, Spring 2008

Series: Californication
Episodes: “La Ronde” (Episode 2.09)
Air Date: November 23, 2008
Director: Adam Bernstein
Costume Designer: Peggy A. Schnitzer

Background

Californication‘s early seasons are often considered to be its best, and the show’s ability to avoid a sophomore slump should give major credit to Callum Keith Rennie’s appearance as Lew Ashby, the enigmatic, charismatic, and hedonistic record producer that shelters Hank for most of the season.

As a show that reveres both rock and literature, Californication wisely spun its second season around a Gatsby-esque plot with writer Hank Moody reasonably placed in the central Nick Carraway role as the cleverly-named Ashby became his Gatsby. Ashby built his rock empire to impress Janie Jones, who now lives with a brutish husband in a Hollywood McMansion and still reminisces – albeit, more bitterly – about her days with Lew when he was just a poor aspiring rocker with a broken-down Mustang.

In a deviation from Fitzgerald’s masterpiece plot, Ashby briefly falls for Hank’s flame – Karen – and steals her away for an impromptu kidnapping date to the Hollywood Bowl. Karen is charmed, for sure, but she’s too reasonable to fall for someone that is even more debauched than Hank.

What’d He Wear?

Suits don’t get much love in the Californication world. The show’s t-shirt-loving protagonist, Hank Moody, refers to his “one and only suit” that is worn only for weddings, funerals, and court appearances. However, Lew Ashby knows when the right duds are needed to impress a lady.

For his Hollywood Bowl date with Karen, Lew spruces himself up in a light gray suit constructed from a lightweight semi-solid wool in a pick weave.

LEW

Lew doesn’t get a mild height difference get in the way of a potential romance.

The single-breasted jacket has a two-button front and 4-button cuffs. The breast pocket is welted and the flapped hip pockets sit straight back on Lew’s waist. The wide peak lapels flare out to the roped sleeveheads. The shoulders are unpadded.

LEW

The back of Lew’s jacket has long double rear vents. His matching trousers are likely flat front with a low rise below his natural waist. They probably have side pockets, although the jetted rear pockets – which close with a button – are best seen.

LEW

Lew wears a black leather belt through the trousers’ belt loops. Apropos the outfit’s steely tones, his belt has a silver-toned buckle. The bottoms of the trousers are plain-hemmed with a full break that covers his black leather boots. Assuming they are the same boots he wears through most of the show, they have a strap across the vamp that closes with a small steel buckle.

LEW

A real gentleman always opens the door for his date and also pulls out her briefcase if he kidnapped her on her way home from work.

Perhaps knowing that Karen digs guys who wear black shirts, Lew opts for a black long-sleeve dress shirt with black buttons down the plain, placket-less front. It has a large collar, which he leaves open with the first few buttons undone.

LEW

Better luck next time, Lew.

Unlike many of the BAMFs featured on this blog, Lew Ashby isn’t afraid to bedazzle himself with plentiful accessories on a daily basis. Hank wears one silver ring, but Lew ups the ante with two – one on the third finger of each hand.

Like Hank, he also wears a simple black corded leather bracelet that appears to never be removed. Unlike Hank, he wears it on his right wrist.

Not from this episode, but a fine representation of Lew's many accessories.

Not from this episode, but a fine representation of Lew’s many accessories.

Since this is the most that Lew ever covers up his sleeves, it’s difficult to determine if he’s wearing his other accessories… but it’s likely that he is. He doubles down on his left wrist, sporting both a bracelet of silver spherical studs and a stainless watch on a black rubber strap. On a corded necklace his neck, he wears a steel pendant with what appears to be an owl’s face etched into it.

Go Big or Go Home

The Hollywood Bowl is an impressive enough date spot alone, but Ashby’s musical connections allow him to rent the place out for a private concert for just he and Karen to see Lili Haydn.

Well played, Lew.

Well played, Lew.

I admittedly had never heard of Lili Haydn before the show, but Karen is duly impressed, as was I after I learned more about her. She began playing the violin at the age of eight, shortly after launching her acting career as the young daughter of Columbo. Not long after her appearance on Californication, she sustained neurological damage after being exposed to a pesticide which left her unable to write lyrics. She still, however, manages to write music and continues to compose film scores and the music for her latest EP, Lilliland, which was released last September.

I’m proud to say I’ve been to the Hollywood Bowl myself, but I’m ashamed to say that I was only eight years old; as the guest of a large family outing to the Bowl, I was unable to truly enjoyed it and spent most of the time being upset that I was split away from my parents. Spoiled brat, I was.

How to Get the Look

CaliLew209-crop

Callum Keith Rennie and Natascha McElhone as Lew and Karen, respectively.

Lew shows Hank that date attire doesn’t always have to be a black shirt and jeans.

  • Light gray semi-solid pick lightweight wool suit, consisting of:
    • Single-breasted jacket with wide peak lapels, 2-button front, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 4-button cuffs, and long double rear vents
    • Flat front low rise trousers with belt loops, side pockets, jetted button-through rear pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black long-sleeve dress shirt with large collar, plain front, and button cuffs
  • Black leather belt with squared steel single-claw buckle
  • Black leather buckle-strap boots
  • Tarnished steel ring, worn on right ring finger
  • Spiral steel ring, worn on left ring finger
  • Black corded leather bracelet, worn on right wrist
  • Steel spherical studded bracelet, worn on left wrist
  • Stainless wristwatch with white dial on black rubber strap, worn on left wrist
  • Steel “owl face” pendant on corded necklace

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the second season.

The Quote

Life is just too fucking boring not to try.

Footnotes

For any of you who may have remembered from last year, today is my birthday – I’m now 26. Woo hoo!

Indiana Jones’ White Dinner Jacket

Harrison Ford as Indiana Jones in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom (1984).

Harrison Ford as Indiana Jones in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom (1984).

Vitals

Harrison Ford as Indiana Jones, adventurer and archaeology professor

Shanghai, Summer 1935

Film: Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom
Release Date: May 23, 1984
Director: Steven Spielberg
Costume Designer: Anthony Powell

Background

For the first Indiana Jones post on BAMF Style, one might expect to see the iconic leather jacket, fedora, and bullwhip costume. However, Indy’s first chronological appearance in the original trilogy is at the outset of Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom when Indy dons his finest duds to meet with Shanghai crime boss Lao Che at the hopping Club Obi Wan.

What’d He Wear?

English costume designer Anthony Powell set himself apart as a master of 1930s film wardrobes for a few decades, dressing everyone from Indiana Jones to the oft-doomed vacationers in several lavish Agatha Christie adaptations.

One of Powell’s earlier designs, a white dinner jacket worn by Nicholas Clay as Patrick Redfern in Evil Under the Sun, was also featured on BAMF Style last summer. Two years after Evil Under the Sun, Powell returned to the drawing board to create a white dinner jacket for another ’30s gentleman in a warm climate.

And what a gentleman he is!

And what a gentleman he is!

Like Patrick Redfern, Indy would’ve been taking a cue from the tropical resorts where gents were now sporting white or off-white dinner jackets in warmer climates. As Black Tie Guide says: “White dinner jackets premiered alongside the mess jacket in resorts like Palm Beach and Cannes, albeit with much less fanfare. Constructed of cotton drill, linen, or silk they were originally worn with either black or white trousers of tropical weight wool.”

Based on the texture and thickness, Indy’s cream dinner jacket appears to be tropical wool or possibly a cotton and wool blend. It is single-breasted with a single covered button in the front. The wide, silk-faced peak lapels extend sharply toward the padded shoulders and roped sleeveheads. (More about the silk facings later.)

Indy turns on the charm for the crime bosses.

Indy turns on the charm for the crime bosses.

Dr. Jones embellishes his look with not one but two added touches. He folds a white linen handkerchief into the welted breast pocket and pins a large red carnation to the left lapel.

Indy’s dinner jacket also has jetted hip pockets, a ventless back, and 4-button cuffs in mother-of-pearl. Questionable silk facings aside, it would’ve been a very stylish jacket for 1935 before men’s formalwear briefly entered a more double-breasted phase as seen on the Redfern jacket and in Casablanca.

Indy hops around Club Obi Wan.

Indy hops around Club Obi Wan.

Black Tie Guide also notes the rising popularity of formal waistcoats in the 1930s: ‘Waistcoats have become a high style item,’ observed Apparel Arts in 1933. ‘No more of the thick ill-fitting affairs but today a suave and sleek arrangement.'” Indy’s nod to this “suave and sleek arrangement” is a black silk single-breasted waistcoat with a low V-shaped front opening. Although backless designs were entering the men’s fashion realm, Indy’s vest appears to be the more traditional full-back version.

Indy’s waistcoat has a 4-button front – each button covered in black satin – with a notched bottom. The jacket covers the vest most of the time, but it appears to have wide shawl lapels and no pockets.

INDY

I’ve never seen Harrison Ford look so distressed!

Indy properly wears a pair of black formal trousers made of tropical-weight wool with a single satin stripe down each side to the plain-hemmed bottoms.

Indy’s shirt is a more traditional white plain front bib that is now more associated with white tie. Two onyx studs are visible between the detachable wing collar and the bottom of the waistcoat opening. The shirt’s single cuffs are fastened by a pair of unique bronze cuff links depicting the Eye of Horus, the Egyptian god of creation. According to Indy Props, which recreated its own pair in gold-plated or bronze-plated metal: “This symbol represents royal authority as well as mathematical signs used by the Egyptians. This design of cufflinks is also fitting for the time period, with the Egyptian art-deco renaissance of the 1920s and 30s.” Indy’s cuff links provide a unique, adventurous touch to an otherwise traditional outfit.

INDY

#YesAllWillies

Another non-traditional – and more disappointing – aspect of the outfit is Indy’s black satin bow tie. While there’s absolutely nothing wrong with a black satin bow tie with a white dinner jacket, Indy wears a pre-tied model rather than a self-tie model. This would be less grievous if it wasn’t for Indy’s wing collar which fails to obscure the hook closure on the left side of the tie knot.

Indy’s shoes are a correct pair of black patent leather longwing oxfords, best seen when he scrambles all over the floor of Club Obi Wan in search of an antidote. We briefly see his socks, also black and likely cotton.

INDY

♫ Happy feet… ♫

The oft-referenced Black Tie Guide directly mentions this outfit in a blog post from last summer, commenting that “[the silk facing] might be legitimate for the 1980s production timeline it certainly wasn’t for the 1930s narrative. Of the dozens of Depression-era white DJ references I have on file from leading menswear periodicals, none of them suggest anything but self facings.” Author Peter Marshall also notes that “the black waistcoat would have been equally unorthodox back in the day.” Given Mr. Marshall’s extensive research into the history of formalwear, I would accept his word and say that Indy’s formal attire is more an ’80s interpretation of the ’30s than an actual reflection of the period’s fashions.

What to Imbibe

Indy and his criminal companions do better than James Bond’s ten-year-old champagne by sipping from a bottle of Moët & Chandon 1915… which would’ve been a full twenty years old by the time of the film’s setting. Modern Moët drinkers may be used to seeing the traditional “Brut Imperial” label, but here we see a “Dry Imperial” label.

Pop!

*Pop!*

Of course, you’ll want to avoid any poisoned coupes of Moët. Even if you have the antidote, you never know what you’ll have to do to get your hands on it.

How to Get the Look

While not a perfect translation of ’30s formalwear, Indy’s off-white dinner jacket provides a cool template for making an impression on your weekend getaway. (In Dr. Jones’ case, that would be a literal getaway.)

IndyTux-crop

  • Cream wool-blend single-breasted dinner jacket with wide peak lapels, single covered-button front, welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, 4-button mother-of-pearl cuffs, and ventless back
  • Black satin silk single-breasted 4-button waistcoat with wide shawl lapels and notched bottom
  • Black tropical wool formal trousers with satin side stripes and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • White formal dress shirt with detachable wing collar, plain front bib, two onyx shirt studs, and single cuffs
  • Black satin silk bow tie
  • Bronze deco-style “Eye of Horus” cuff links
  • Black patent leather longwing oxfords
  • Black cotton socks

Indy accessorizes with a large red lapel carnation and a folded white silk pocket square.

The Gun

Indiana: Where’s my gun? WHERE’S MY GUN?
Willie: I burned by fingers and I cracked a nail!

Although it is only briefly spotted as Indy fights back against Lao Che’s gangsters, the gun used in Temple of Doom has been determined to be a Colt Official Police revolver with a 4″ barrel, chambered in .38 Special. The fact that Indy loses his Official Police in the first scene may explain why he has a different weapon, a Smith & Wesson, by the time of the next adventure (Raiders of the Lost Ark).

Good thing Colt didn't pay for this placement.

Good thing Colt didn’t pay for this placement.

Due to its quick and blurred screen time, many assumed that this standard-looking American revolver was the same as the Smith & Wesson Hand Ejector used in Raiders of the Lost Ark. IndyGear.com, however, has been able to definitely prove that it was an Official Police. IndyGear.com researched the three handguns rented for the film’s production, a Colt Official Police .38 with a 4″ barrel, a Smith & Wesson Model 10 .38 with a 5″ barrel and lanyard ring, and a Webley Green revolver that was meant to be used as Indy’s “hero” gun (explaining the larger Webley-sized holster he wears later).

Interestingly, this car chase through Shanghai is the only time that Indy uses a handgun throughout the film.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie, or the whole series.

The Quote

I suggest you give me what you owe me… or anything goes!

Denzel Washington in Inside Man

Denzel Washington as Det. Keith Frazier in Inside Man (2005).

Denzel Washington as Det. Keith Frazier in Inside Man (2006).

Vitals

Denzel Washington as Keith Frazier, NYPD detective

New York City, August 2005

Film: Inside Man
Release Date: March 24, 2006
Director: Spike Lee
Costume Designer: Donna Berwick

Background

Thirty years after Al Pacino electrified audiences in Dog Day Afternoon, Spike Lee released Inside Man, another gripping film about a mid-day New York City bank robbery involving hostages, double-crosses, and character-driven comic moments biting into the suspense.

While Dog Day Afternoon focuses primarily on the criminals, Inside Man shifts focus to the other side of the law as the charismatic and somewhat cocky Detective Keith Frazier (Denzel Washington) is assigned to handle the robbery. His adversary is far more cunning than the emotional Sonny of Dog Day Afternoon, and Frazier is just the guy to match his wits. As Frazier himself bemoans:

Who ever heard of a bank robbers escaping on a plane with fifty hostages? You’ve seen Dog Day Afternoon! You’re stalling! Why? I don’t know.

Washington was originally given the choice between playing the guileful bank robber Dalton Russell or the ambitious Detective Frazier. He opted for the second, citing the role as “Brutus goes to Brooklyn” and basing it off of his earlier Broadway performance in Julius Caesar.

What’d He Wear?

Detective Frazier dresses sharply for work, showing up at the scene in a lightweight wool tan pinstripe suit that nicely contrasts the colder dark blue uniforms and suits around him.

InsideDW-CL1-Jkt1

Frazier stands out from the rest of the cops with his seasonally-appropriate wardrobe.

Frazier’s suit jacket is single-breasted with a 3-button front that is nicely spread out over Washington’s long torso. The jacket has a welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, 4-button cuffs, and a ventless back. The shoulders are straight with roped sleeveheads. He wears his gold NYPD police detective pin, with its blue enamel painted surface, on the left notch lapel.

INSIDE MAN

A pensive Denzel.

Although it first appears to be a simple pinstripe pattern, a closer look reveals an alternating double stripe with the light tan stripe providing the most contrast and a second peach stripe blending in to provide a warmer overall appearance.

INSIDE MAN

Another day so another shirt and tie. This production still offers the best view of the contrasting suit stripes, though.

The suit has a pair of matching low rise trousers with single reverse pleats, offering more comfort for a man that ends up wearing the same pants for almost 24 hours. Frazier’s suit trousers have belt loops, on-seam side pockets, and two jetted rear pockets that each close with a single button. The plain-hemmed bottoms have a full break.

INSIDE MAN

Frazier’s shirt on the day of the bank robbery is light ecru cotton. It has a large, wide spread collar and a front placket. He fastens the double cuffs with gold links.

INSIDE MAN

Frazier’s silk tie perfectly matches his gold-and-blue NYPD lapel pin. The tie is a series of bold right-down-to-left stripes alternating between double-ribbed navy blue and a wider mustard gold. The gold stripe is broken up by two narrow sets of triple stripes in yellow, citrus gold, and yellow again.

INSIDE MAN

The next day, when Frazier and his partner go to investigate the vault, Frazier wears the same suit with a different shirt and tie. The shirt is white, but his tie is cream and orange striped – also bold but now in the opposite direction – with black stripes across the bottom half of each cream portion.

INSIDE MAN

The second shirt-and-tie combo is better seen during Frazier’s meeting with Madeleine White, but – alas – he wears a solid tan suit for that meeting.

Frazier sticks to the earth tones with his dark burgundy leather belt that closes with a steel buckle. He attaches his black nylon belt holster – one of the few non-earth tone aspects of his outfit – to the right side of the belt for a right-hand draw.

INSIDE MAN

Mitchell: Hey Keith, let me see your shoe.
Frazier: What?
Mitchell: Lemme see your shoe.
Frazier: Why?
Mitchell: ‘Cause I have never seen anyone put their foot that far up a guy’s ass.

A sharp-dressed guy like Frazier would be expected to follow the matching belt/shoes rule, and he does so with aplomb. He sports a pair of dark burgundy cordovan leather perforated cap toe bluchers with thick black soles. The brief glimpse of his socks under the trousers’ full break shows dark – either black or dark brown – dress socks.

INSIDE MAN

The full break of Frazier’s trousers is just long enough to avoid hitting the soles on the back of his shoes.

Maitre d': May I have your hat, please?
Frazier: No, you cannot! Get your own.

Frazier tops off his look (literally) with a short-brimmed trilby in light straw. The hat’s slim cream-edged ribbon is taupe with a black, cream, and rust brown Glen plaid overcheck.

INSIDE MAN

On his right pinky, Frazier wears a gold pinky ring resembling a miniature NYPD detective’s shield, complete with the blue enamel face. He also wears a gold curb link bracelet on his right wrist.

INSIDE MAN

Gold is clearly Frazier’s color of choice from his clothing to his accessories, including his Gevril Chelsea watch with its 18 karat yellow gold 40mm case and gold link bracelet. The watch has a round white dial and fastens to his left wrist via deployment clasp.

How to Get the Look

Detective Frazier doesn’t let the unpredictable nature of his work get in the way of his looking sharp on a long summer day in the city.
InsideDW-crop

  • Tan double-pinstripe lightweight wool suit, consisting of:
    • Single-breasted jacket with notch lapels, 3-button front, welted breast pocket, jetted hip pockets, 4-button cuffs, and ventless back
      • Blue enamel-painted gold NYPD pin on left lapel
    • Single reverse-pleated low rise trousers with belt loops, on-seam side pockets, jetted button-through rear pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Light ecru cotton dress shirt with large spread collar, front placket, and double/French cuffs
  • Gold and navy blue boldly-striped silk necktie
  • Gold cluster cuff links
  • Dark burgundy cordovan leather perforated cap-toe bluchers
  • Black dress socks
  • Dark burgundy leather belt with squared steel single-claw buckle
  • Black nylon RHD belt holster for mid-size Glock pistol
  • Light straw short-brimmed trilby with multi-color Glen Plaid ribbon
  • Gevril Chelsea yellow gold wristwatch with white dial and gold link deployment-clasp bracelet, worn on left wrist
  • Gold curb link bracelet, worn on right wrist
  • Blue enamel-painted gold NYPD detective’s shield pinky ring, worn on right hand

The Gun

True to life, all NYPD officers seen in Inside Man – including Detective Frazier – carry Glock 19 semi-automatic pistols. Surprisingly for a crime drama centered around a bank robbery, Frazier never gets to draw his, and the only action it sees is when he removes the magazine and puts it away at the end.

 

INSIDE MAN

Frazier says goodnight to his Glock.

The Glock 19 is, in fact, one of three 9×19 mm service pistols currently offered to NYPD officers; the other two are the SIG-Sauer P226 and Smith & Wesson 5946, both with double-action only (DAO) triggers and all modified to a 12 lb. (“NY-2″) trigger pull. The NYPD transitioned to semi-automatic pistols from revolvers in 1994, but any officers carrying revolvers from before then are still permitted to use their revolver as a duty weapon.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie.

The Quote

Sorry to interrupt you, Mister Mayor, but there’s an old American saying: When there’s blood on the streets, somebody’s gotta go to jail.

The Rum Diary – Kemp’s Striped Linen Shirt and Jeans

Johnny Depp as Paul Kemp in The Rum Diary (2011).

Johnny Depp as Paul Kemp in The Rum Diary (2011).

Vitals

Johnny Depp as Paul Kemp, expatriate American journalist and borderline alcoholic

St. Thomas, Summer 1960

Film: The Rum Diary
Release Date: October 28, 2011
Director: Bruce Robinson
Costume Designer: Colleen Atwood

Background

All the balls that Paul Kemp was juggling at this point have begun to fall. His grasp on his job, his shady dealings with PR whiz Sanderson, and his flirtation with Sanderson’s girlfriend. The bottom falls out when Kemp and photographer pal head to Carnival at Saint Thomas in the Virgin Islands after visiting island property for Sanderson’s budding real estate scam.

Bruce Robinson’s script perfectly nails the feeling of the scene as Chenault leads Kemp by the hand to Sanderson’s yacht:

Like walking the plank in reverse, they invade a small drinks party.

Other than the glamorous Chenault, none of the new visitors fit in with Sanderson’s cosmopolitan set.

Zimburger takes Kemp and Sala to see the island property, then they head to St. Thomas for Carnival. Kemp finds Chenault, and they wind up on Sanderson’s boat. Sanderson berates Kemp for involving Sala in the deal. At night, they go to a club, and a drunk Chenault dances with local men to provoke Sanderson, with whom she has been fighting. The black owners of the bar beat up Sanderson and throw Kemp out of the club. Chenault is left behind at the bar, but where she ends up is not known. The next day, Chenault is gone, and Sanderson tells Kemp that their business arrangement is over.

Unfortunately for our cheeky protagonist, venturing to Carnival at Saint Thomas is exactly the rum-soaked revelry he should have expected.

What’d He Wear?

Kemp goes out to party in a colorfully striped linen long-sleeve shirt and jeans. Based on his look (and his behavior), he isn’t dressed for fashion so much as he is for comfortably getting drunk.

Kemp’s linen shirt is a nice enough garment, but the way he wears it is intentionally sloppy. The button-down collar is left unfastened – as are the rounded cuffs – and he wears it untucked, allowing the long hem in the front and back to blow around freely.

THE RUM DIARY

Kemp checks out the local scene in St. Thomas.

The shirt’s stripes alternate between light green, tan, baby blue, navy blue, sky blue, and a light blue-gray. The boldness of the alternating stripes is somewhat muted by the linen; from a distance, the navy stripes are most prominently seen with the remaining stripes having a “shadow” effect across the rest of the shirt.

Kemp’s shirt fastens down a front placket with seven mother-of-pearl buttons, with the top few gradually unbuttoning over the course of the party to continue his devil-may-care approach to dress. The back of the shirt has a center box pleat under a hang loop. The center box pleat gives the shirt more fullness; linen is comfortable in hot weather, and a full shirt keeps the fabric from clinging and unfulfilling its purpose.

THE RUM DIARY

Linen is always a smart choice for warm weather wear, although Kemp counters that bit of sartorial shrewdness by coupling it with a pair of jeans. Jeans are not typically recommended for warm summer days in the Caribbean, but Kemp’s life tends to be an unpredictable one and he likely realizes the value of a durable pair of pants for a day-long boozing bonanza.

Kemp also wisely wears a pair of slightly distressed 100% cotton jeans with a loose fit throughout the legs, allowing a breezy airflow without the restrictions of non-cotton synthetic fibers that trap sweat and heat against the skin. The denim wash is a rich medium blue, and the baggy fit continues through the legs down to the full break bottoms.

THE RUM DIARY

Kemp’s footwear of choice is a pair of tan suede 2-eyelet desert boots that don’t receive much screen time in this sequence under the full break of his heavy jeans. He wears them with several casual outfits throughout The Rum Diary, often with cream cotton socks.

THE RUM DIARY

No party should end this way.

Kemp’s watch is a plain military-styled watch with a round steel case and black dial on a light brown strap. Hunter S. Thompson had indeed served in the U.S. Air Force shortly before he traveled to Puerto Rico and penned The Rum Diary, so it’s very possible that Kemp’s watch is an Elgin, Hamilton, or other brand approved for service.

THE RUM DIARY

Kemp’s sunglasses are much less military-inspired and much more space age, appropriate for 1960. The vintage Sol Amor wraparound sunglasses have a futuristic gold frame curving around the two large brown bubble lenses in the front.

THE RUM DIARY

Go Big or Go Home

Kemp knows how to party, kicking off his night by reading Coleridge’s The Rime of the Ancient Mariner… for some reason.

THE RUM DIARY

“It was written in 1797 by a junkie called Coleridge,” explains Kemp.

Of course, Kemp is able to shift easily into party mode and takes off the albatross from around his neck to chug some beer and – of course – rum.

THE RUM DIARY

Tengo ron y cerveza!

The party music is anachronistic for 1960, but Hound Dog Taylor & the HouseRockers provide a perfect backbeat for the raucous bacchanal with “Kitchen Sink Boogie” and “Let’s Get Funky”.

Despite the anachronism, the music is exactly what Robinson wanted, as he wrote in the script:

Once again I refer to HOUND DOG TAYLOR. His is the kind of music I want. A real friendly face with a Strat and a grin, hits a slug from his on/stage bottle. "You alright?" "You alright?" Sure they're alright. Two hundred faces alright.
Adrenaline out of a raw guitar. Caribbean turned into black rock and roll. Walls of black muscle put eyes on the little white girls. CHENAULT and her GIRLFRIEND are riding cloud 9.
"Kitchen Sink Boogie," or something similar. Rock like it's coming out of the floor.

How to Get the Look

Kemp dresses for a party, but he wisely doesn’t dress to impress given the kind of party.

Amber Heard and Johnny Depp as Chenault and Paul Kemp.

Amber Heard and Johnny Depp as Chenault and Paul Kemp.

  • Blue/green/tan multicolor striped linen long-sleeve shirt with button-down collar, front placket, breast pocket, and button cuffs
  • Blue denim jeans with baggy fit and full break
  • Tan suede 2-eyelet desert boots
  • Cream cotton socks
  • Sol Amor vintage wraparound sunglasses with gold front frame across brown “space age” bubble lenses
  • Steel military-style wristwatch with round case, black dial, and light brown strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Read the book first, and the movie will make a lot more sense! Of course, Hunter S. Thompson fans are already well familiar with the gonzo mindset.

The Quote

I don’t know how to write like me.

Bond’s Casual Brown Linen in Japan

Sean Connery as James Bond in You Only Live Twice (1967).

Sean Connery as James Bond in You Only Live Twice (1967).

Vitals

Sean Connery as James Bond, sophisticated British MI6 agent

Miyazaki, Japan, Summer 1966

Film: You Only Live Twice
Release Date: June 13, 1967
Director: Lewis Gilbert
Wardrobe Master: Eileen Sullivan

Background

For the 00-7th of July, I’m revisiting one of my least favorite films in the James Bond franchise: You Only Live Twice. This movie polarizes Bond fans; some enjoy it for the spectacular action and adventure elements and Donald Pleasance’s iconic turn as Blofeld while others feel as bored as Sean Connery himself by the formulaic and over-the-top plot.

Even YOLT fans can’t deny that this marked the first major departure from Ian Fleming’s original plots, keeping the Japan setting and several characters intact while replacing Bond’s fatalistic revenge-driven quest with a conventional action piece. You Only Live Twice evidently provided much of the fodder for spy parodies, most notably the Austin Powers franchise, which featured another scarred, Mao-suited villain in his volcano lair full of identically-dressed henchmen and poor marksmen.

Story was also tossed out in favor of gadgets and spectacle, best exemplified by Little Nellie, the heavily armed WA-116 autogyro delivered to him by Q. Little Nellie has the dubious distinction of managing to be both the most and least cool gadget in the Bond franchise. The original design, invented by RAF Wing Commander Ken Wallis (who flew Little Nellie in the movie), would be a practical and useful item for a spy, allowing him to fly a compact craft for visual recon. Unfortunately:

a) It was fucking YELLOW. Not exactly the pigment of stealth.
2) Connery still had to wear a helmet. If he fell out of that thing, I don’t think a cheap white helmet is gonna be the life or death factor. It’s not like little kids would stop wearing helmets on their personal helicopters if they saw James Bond wasn’t wearing his.
c) The yellow thing again. Seriously, they couldn’t make it black? Or gunmetal gray?

*Pew pew pew!*

*Pew pew pew!*

Wallis initially flew John Stears’ mocked-up Little Nellie model around Miyazaki on location in Japan, but the explosions required for the helicopter battle would defy Japanese law. Production was moved to the similar-looking Torremolinos in Spain.

After production wrapped and a cynical, Bond-weary Connery was pushed through the press junket, he casually strolled into an interview  – without his toupee – wearing a casual T-shirt with baggy trousers and sandals. The interviewer was shocked and asked: “Is this how James Bond dresses?” Connery responded:

I’m not James Bond. I’m Sean Connery… a man who likes to dress comfortably.

What’d He Wear?

More power to you, Sir Sean, but let’s see how James Bond does dress comfortably. Matt Spaiser featured a fine breakdown of this casual brown linen summer attire on his blog, The Suits of James Bond. Bond sports two different casual outfits while training in Japan, but this – consisting primarily of simple summer-friendly earth tones – is the superior of the two.

From head to toe, this would have been a Fleming-approved outfit. Fleming often called for Bond to wear “sleeveless” (aka short-sleeve) shirts and open-toed sandals in warm weather, and the color scheme is similar to the khaki shirt and dark brown jeans that Fleming outfits 007 in during a mission in Canada in “For Your Eyes Only”. Since this is Japan in July and not Canada in October, linen is the primary fabric for Bond’s clothing.

Bond and Aki engage in some day drinking before the real business of the afternoon is forced upon them.

Bond and Aki engage in some day drinking before the real business of the afternoon is forced upon them.

Bond wears a light tan linen sport shirt that is designed for casual comfort in the sun with its full cut and straight, untucked hem. The short sleeves are cuffed above the elbow, and the five white buttons fasten down a plain front; Connery only wears the lower three buttons done. The shirt has a square patch pocket on the left breast and short vents along the hem – one on the right and one on the left.

YOLT4-CL1-Shirt2

Bond’s brown linen flat front trousers also have a comfortably full cut, as few sartorial traditions are more refreshing on a warm day than feeling a breeze blowing through a pair of full-fitting linen slacks. Based on the frogmouth front pockets and plain-hemmed bottoms, they’re likely styled the same as his later gray trousers with side-tab “Daks top” waist adjusters and no rear pockets.

Q shows off Little Nellie while 007 shows off Little Sean.

Q shows off Little Nellie while 007 shows off Little Sean.

When standing near Q and the other MI6 cronies all outfitted in bush khaki, Bond subconsciously looks like part of their team in his arguably cooler – both figuratively cooler and literally cooler – variation of the earth tones.

His feet definitely stay cooler in a pair of light brown leather sandals with open toes. The sandals have one sabot strap near the front, another strap over the arch, and a heel strap to keep his foot snugly in place. The lack of an intertoe thong means he could wear the sandals with socks if he wanted to… but he thankfully chooses not to do so.

Bond’s sandals appear to have solid, non-adjustable straps but most commonly made sandals these days have a buckle on each strap to allow a snugger fit. The closest examples I’ve been able to find online are the Pikolinos Phuket and the unisex Birkenstock Milano, both available from Zappos. I’m not crazy about open-toed sandals myself (there was an incident with a toenail in 2004…), but their cooling benefits can’t be denied.

This is one of the simpler outfits in the Bond franchise. Comfortable, minimal, and no frills – not even a watch. Later, Bond again sports linen for his training with Tanaka, but his choice of a dressier pink linen shirt with long “turnback cuff” sleeves tucked into gray wool trousers – still wearing the same brown sandals, mind you – is too much of an awkward mishmash to exude the same elegantly casual charm of this outfit.

What to Imbibe

Tiger Tanaka happens across Bond and Aki as they’re working their way through a bottle of Suntory Old Whisky, the legendary Japanese whisky that many filmgoers remember from Bill Murray’s advertisements in Lost in Translation.

Cheers!

Cheers!

YOLT4-LS-Akadama.jpgJapan was a late-comer to the whiskey game, and it’s no surprise that the nation began distilling in 1870 just after the start of the Meiji period that marked a rapid cultural and economic renaissance in Japanese history. Suntory’s story began nearly three decades later when Torii Shinjiro opened a store in Osaka to sell imported wines. Shinjiro was constantly innovating; the store became the Kotobukiya company in 1921, and Shinjiro built the country’s first malt whisky distillery – Yamazaki Distillery – two years later.

Shinjiro even introduced the first nude advertising poster in Japan when he rolled out a poster in 1922 featuring model Matsushima Emiko wearing only a meek smile as she holds a glass of Akadama port wine.

Yamazaki produced the first single malt whisky made in Japan, Whisky Shirofuda (Suntory White Label), and it went on the market in 1929.

More information about Suntory’s history in the James Bond series can be found at James Bond Lifestyle.

How to Get the Look

007 wins again with another summer ensemble that will keep you cooler – again, both literally and figuratively – than those other rubes in their t-shirts and shorts.

YOLT4-crop1

  • Tan linen short-sleeve sport shirt with camp collar, plain front, breast pocket, and straight hem with side vents
  • Brown linen flat front trousers with button-tab “Daks top” side waist adjusters, frogmouth front pockets, no rear pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Light brown leather sandals with gabot strap, instep strap, and heel strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie. It may not be my favorite Bond, but it’s still classic Bond.

The Quote

Little Nelly got a hot reception. Four big shots made improper advances toward her, but she defended her honor with great success.

Justified – Raylan’s Double Denim and Red Plaid Shirt

Timothy Olyphant as Deputy U.S. Marshal Raylan Givens in Justified (Episode 2.11: "Full Commitment", 2011).

Timothy Olyphant as Deputy U.S. Marshal Raylan Givens on Justified (Episode 2.11: “Full Commitment”, 2011).

Vitals

Timothy Olyphant as Raylan Givens, old-fashioned and stoic Deputy U.S. Marshal

Harlan County, Kentucky, Spring 2010

Series: Justified
Episodes: “Fixer” (Episode 1.03), “The Collection” (Episode 1.06), and “Full Commitment” (Episode 2.11)
Air Dates: March 30, 2010 (1.03), April 20, 2010 (1.06), and April 20, 2011 (2.11)
Directors: Fred Keller (1.03), Rob Holcomb (1.06), and Peter Werner (2.11)
Costume Designers: Ane Crabtree (Season 1) & Patia Prouty (Season 2)

Background

When America needed an American hero, Elmore Leonard gave us Raylan Givens. An independent-minded, old-fashioned, and gun-handy lawman, Raylan sees himself more as John Wayne than John McClane. The series began by establishing him as a no-nonsense U.S. Marshal who backs up his word when he gives a “gun thug” 24 hours to leave town. Once he’s transferred back to his birthplace among the blue-collar hillfolk of eastern Kentucky, he’s far more at home in his cowboy hat, riding boots, and jeans than he was in Miami.

The first few episodes allow both the show and Raylan to find a groove with a more episodic format before settling into a more serial narrative for the rest of the show’s run. Although “case-of-the-week” shows can grow irritating, Justified made the most of it with clever plots worthy of Elmore Leonard himself and colorful guest stars that helped the content stand out far more than your standard Law and Order or CSI could even aspire to, all the while dropping hints about Raylan’s backstory before it all comes to a crescendo later in the first season.

Though he always dresses up on duty in at least a sport coat and tie, Raylan prefers simpler denim-happy casual attire befitting his bucolic roots. To celebrate the 4th of July tomorrow, BAMF Style is going to pull examples from three episodes – “Fixer”, “The Collection”, and “Full Commitment” – that show how Raylan incorporated red, white, and blue into his typical “denim sandwich”.

What’d He Wear?

Raylan Givens is a master of a look that is often considered a sartorial “no-no” due to the endless possibilities of getting it wrong – a denim jacket and jeans.

JUSTIFIED

Raylan displays bafflement that his simple country style made it onto a blog celebrating sartorial excellence.

This look is known by many names ranging from the Texas Tuxedo and Canadian Tuxedo (which would’ve been more appropriate when Olyphant played Canadian-born Seth Bullock on Deadwood) to double denim and, my favorite, the denim sandwich. Raylan sports a denim sandwich often and in each of the show’s six seasons, sometimes even with a wool overcoat over it to soften the look.

I still need to watch the show’s final season (I know, I know!), but I have so far seen Raylan sporting his denim jacket and jeans look in five separate combinations. The most common shirt accompaniment by far is a dark blue henley, although he also wears dark layered shirts, a dark shirt over a light-colored henley, and even a purple shirt on many different occasions based on the episode and context. Since we’re celebrating the 4th of July, BAMF Style is gonna take a look at an All-American red, white, and blue look as Raylan pairs his denim sandwich with red, white, and blue plaid shirts.

JUSTIFIED

I never realized how much time Raylan spent looking totally nonplussed.

First – the jacket. The familiar red “e tab” tag on the left pocket flap tells us that this is a genuine Levi’s trucker jacket constructed of blue stonewashed denim. The jacket has horizontal front yokes that end below the second button and just above the pockets. The back has a separate yoke with horizontal stitching across the shoulder blades. The fit is straight and comfortable, hitting just below the hip. Two vertical seams extend down from the chest pocket top to the adjustable waistband.

Raylan’s jacket has four outer pockets. The two patch pockets on the chest are pointed with more dramatic Western-style pointed flaps that close through a steel button. The two lower pockets on each side are welted for easy hand access; the handwarmer pockets were added to Levi’s denim jackets in mid-1980. The waistband is slightly adjustable with a small buttoned strap on each side. Raylan wears his jacket cuffs buttoned. All buttons – including the six buttons down the front – are aluminum stud buttons.

JUSTIFIED

Although Raylan’s particular jacket is no longer available from Levi’s, their popular Trucker Jacket has been “leading the pack” since 1962 – according to the Levi’s site. Denim Hunters has a helpful guide if you’re curious when your vintage Levi’s denim jacket was made.

Raylan wisely contrasts his medium blue denim jacket with his darker blue wash denim jeans. Raylan typically wears Levi’s jeans as well with a straight bootcut leg, belt loops, a zipper fly, and the standard five-pocket layout: two front pockets, right coin pocket, and two rear patch pockets.

JUSTIFIED

Grocery shopping is relatively simple with Raylan Givens.

The denim sandwich is Raylan’s favorite off-duty look, and he twice sports it with two different red, white, and blue plaid shirts. The first instance is during the final scenes of “Fixer” (Episode 1.03) when he pays Ava a late night visit. The second instance is for most of “Full Commitment” (Episode 2.11) when Tim is assigned to guard him all day.

In both instances, he wears his Steston San Angelo “Marshall” cattleman’s hat in “ranch tan” 4X wool with a 4″ brim. The same hat is available from HatCountry.com for around $130, a small price to pay for badassery.

JUSTIFIED

Raylan shows various degrees of enthusiasm based on his audience.

Both plaid shirts have long sleeves with button cuffs, black buttons down a front placket, and double patch pockets that close on the chest with buttoned flaps.

The first season shirt is Tartan plaid flannel, consisting of bold red, white, and dark blue criss-crossing stripes under a red multi-windowpane overcheck.

JUSTIFIED

Raylan also wears the shirt three episodes later when visiting Boyd in the lockup.

We see much more of the “Full Commitment” plaid shirt; this shirt has a warmer red flannel ground with a fine white and blue shadow plaid overcheck. The overcheck rotates 45° on each pocket to create an “X” plaid illusion. This shirt is also reinforced with a light blue-gray lining that calls out the gray shadow of the blue check. The chest pocket flaps are slim with rounded corners. Raylan wears the cuffs unbuttoned but only rolls the shirt partially up past his wrist.

JUSTIFIED

Raylan wears the “Full Commitment” shirt open to reveal a gray cotton crew neck t-shirt. This short-sleeve t-shirt is a solid medium gray rather than the commonly seen heathered gray. He always sports a white ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt as his base torso layer.

Raylan also sticks with his usual footwear, a pair of custom-made Lucchese dark “cigar” brown ostrich leg Western-style cowboy boots with decorative stitching on the calf leather shafts. A pair of these would typically go for around $1,000 per pair which would be steep for anyone but Raylan who wears absolutely no footwear other than his “fairly new” boots.

Matthew McConaughey isn't the only BAMF on TV who prefers Lincolns.

Matthew McConaughey isn’t the only American BAMF on TV who prefers Lincolns.

Raylan sticks with the matching belt and shoes rule by wearing a brown tooled leather belt. Both on and off duty, he carries his Glock 17 in a tan-finished full grain leather Bianchi Model 59 Special Agent® thumb break paddle holster. His particular model would be the #19128, which is fitted for a right-hand shooter carrying a 4.49″-barreled full size Glock.

JUSTIFIED

Raylan keeps his accessories simple. On his left wrist is the same TAG Heuer Series 6000 Chronometer wristwatch that he wears throughout most of the show with its brushed steel case, white dial, and brown alligator strap. (Thanks to Teeritz for the definitive ID!)

Despite the abundance of hardened criminals and murderers in Raylan's orbit, most Justified fans agree that there's no one worse than GARY.

Despite the abundance of hardened criminals and murderers in Raylan’s orbit, most Justified fans agree that there’s no one worse than GARY.

Raylan also wears his sole piece of jewelry, a silver horseshoe ring on the third finger of this right hand.

Go Big or Go Home

…or go to Kentucky for a true Raylan Givens breakfast.

Raylan: I was just gonna pick up some ice cream.
Tim: Ice cream for breakfast?
Raylan: Yeah, it’s got eggs, milk…

Ever the individualist, not just any ice cream will do for Raylan’s breakfast. He specifically hunts down Chaney’s, which USA Today voted the #1 ice cream in Kentucky.

JUSTIFIED

“Plus, these guys carry Chaney’s.”

Chaney’s Dairy Barn is located in Bowling Green, about 230 miles west of Harlan. The Chaney family had lived on the farm since 1888 and became a dairy farm in 1940, but it wasn’t until September 2003 that Chaney’s Dairy Barn opened to a receptive public. According to Chaney’s Dairy Barn’s Facebook page, the Justified team reached out to Chaney’s to get them on the show. Either way, its appearance on the show is certainly a nice nod to its locale (especially when accompanying the Ale-8-One bottle signs in the background).

How to Get the Look

Raylan’s cowboy-infused denim sandwich is epitomic of his old-fashioned American spirit. It takes a certain kind of man with a certain kind of confidence to strut around in double denim with a cowboy hat and boots, but we can all agree that Raylan is just the sort of man who can pull that off. Can you?

JustifiedDenRed-crop

  • Blue stonewashed denim Levi’s trucker jacket with pointed chest pocket flaps, welted handwarmer side pockets, 6-button front, button cuffs, and adjustable waistband
  • Dark blue denim Levi’s bootcut jeans
  • Red, white, and blue plaid flannel long-sleeve shirt with front placket (with black buttons), two patch chest pockets with button-down flaps, and button cuffs
  • Stetson Marshall 4x wool ranch tan cattleman’s hat with a thin tooled leather band
  • Lucchese “cigar”-colored brown ostrich leg Western-style boots with decorative stitched calf leather shafts
  • Dark brown tooled leather belt with a dulled steel single-claw buckle
  • Tan full grain leather Bianchi Model 59 Special Agent® paddle holster for a full-size Glock pistol
  • TAG Heuer Series 6000 Chronometer wristwatch with brushed steel case, white dial, and brown alligator strap
  • Silver horseshoe ring

For a more casual or cooler day when he wears his shirt open, Raylan opts for a crew neck gray t-shirt rather than the more revealing white sleeveless undershirt.

The Gun

Even though he’s technically suspended in “Full Commitment”, Raylan still makes good use of his Glock 17 sidearm. Although he identifies it earlier in the series as a “.45 Glock” (suggesting a Glock 21), a closer look at the bore and the “17” imprint on the sides confirms that he indeed carries the 9×19 mm Glock 17.

JUSTIFIED

If only Raylan would’ve turned around and shot Gary, the world would have been a happier place.

While Raylan’s choice of a full-size Glock is correct, the issued sidearm for the U.S. Marshal Service is actually the .40-caliber Glock series (full-size 22, compact 23, and subcompact 27 for backup).

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the entire series. The screenshots featured here are from the first and second seasons.

If you’re looking for these episodes in particular…

  • “Fixer” (Episode 1.03) features Raylan standing tall against the inept debt collectors who kidnapped a bookie. Mostly a stand-alone episode until the end when Raylan shows up at Ava’s door… sporting a denim jacket and jeans for the first time!
  • “The Collection” (Episode 1.06) finds Raylan meeting an art collector, played by fellow Deadwood alum Peter Jason, for a case of fraud that quickly turns into a murder investigation. Again, mostly a stand-alone episode save for a sub-plot with ex-wife Winona and the beginning when Raylan talks to Boyd in jail, wearing the same plaid shirt from his late-night visit to Ava’s in “Fixer”.
  • “Full Commitment” (Episode 2.11) is an entertaining hour deep in the narrative of the superlative second season as Raylan is forced to take protection from his fellow Marshals, including a beleaguered but cool-as-usual Tim.

The Quote

As long as you understand that the next time we have this conversation, there won’t be a conversation.