Vitals

Brad Pitt as Max Vatan, Royal Canadian Air Force intelligence officer

London, April 1944

Film: Allied
Release Date: November 23, 2016
Director: Robert Zemeckis
Costume Designer: Joanna Johnston

Background

Following their adventures in Morocco, glamorous spy couple Max Vatan (Brad Pitt) and Marianne Beauséjour (Marion Cotillard) “settle down” for their shared life in World War II-era London, spending their time picking mushrooms when not in service to their respective governments.

For these [not so] innocent outings, Max shows off his stylish approach to “smart casual” civilian attire anchored by a brown suede vintage-inspired jacket custom made for Brad Pitt by costume designer Joanna Johnston’s team.

What’d He Wear?

Max Vatan’s brown lambskin suede zip-front jacket is definitely a civilian garment though it shares some similarities with classic military flight jacket design, illustrating that Max can never stray too far from his duty, even in moments of seeming respite with his wife. The jacket was made for the film by Cromford Leather Co. of London., renamed in 2016 after 45 years as General Leather.

The jacket has a single brass-toned zipper that fastens up to a flat brown leather collar. There are two slanted welt hand pockets and a set-in pocket on the left chest with a slim horizontal zip opening that closes from left to right. The sleeves have belted half-tabs at the cuffs that adjust the tightness through a slide buckle.

Leather and suede were just emerging as popular choices for civilian outerwear during this era, though gabardine would’ve likely been the more common fabric for this type of garment. In fact, the term “gabardine jacket” was frequently used as a marketing shortcut during the 1940s and 1950s for this type of zip-front jacket with a shirt style collar, hand pockets, and one or two chest pockets. (Like this one.)

Max’s jacket is full of vintage detailing like the “action back” with its inverted box pleat down the center that allows him a greater range of motion and a half-belt with a buckle strap on each side to adjust the fit around the waist for a blouson-like effect. The jacket is only slightly longer than his waist, extending down to the tops of his hips.

Max counters the warmth of his brown jacket with cooler toned layers beneath it. His pale blue shirt is alternately striped in blue and rust and has a point collar, plain front, and button cuffs.

Both of Max’s “civilian” ties with this outfit are widely striped in shades of blue and green in the direction of his left shoulder down to the right hip. His first tie consists of solid block stripes of blue, navy, and hunter green. The outfit’s second appearance finds him in a more colorful tie with burgundy, bottle green, and air force blue (appropriately enough), shadowed with thin gray stripes.

If you want to channel Max’s rugged weekender look without searching for a replica tie, you can nod to his Royal Canadian Air Force service with this pure wool tie in the classic RCAF maroon and light blue tartan plaid. Otherwise, you can explore neckwear like this Knightsbridge tie or this Qobod tie.

Max’s cable knit sweater vest is soft blue-gray cashmere with ribbing around the shallow v-neck and the armholes.

Max’s gray flannel trousers have a full cut and traditional English double forward pleats. The waist is always covered so I’m unsure if he wears them with suspenders or a belt or if they have side-adjusters in lieu of either of those. The trouser bottoms are finished with turn-ups (cuffs).

Max wears cognac brown leather plain-toe derby shoes with a pair of bold mustard gold socks, another tastefully colorful element of an interesting casual outfit.

Although this is his dressed-down weekend look, Max wears headgear appropriate for business in the form of his gray felt unlined fedora with a wide black grosgrain band.

Max wears several wristwatches over the course of Allied, choosing each based on the context of his current situation. In this scene, he appears to be wearing a gold watch on a brown leather strap.

How to Get the Look

Max Vatan shows a natty approach to dressing down with his contextually appropriate knit sweater vest and tie, flannel slacks, and military-inspired suede jacket.

• Brown suede zip-front waist-length jacket with brown leather shirt-style collar, horizontal zip pocket on left chest, slanted welt hand pockets, belted cuffs, “action back” inverted box-pleat back with half-belt and side adjuster tabs
• Pale blue striped shirt with point collar, front placket, and button cuffs
• Blue-and-green widely striped tie
• Gray-blue cashmere cable knit sweater vest
• Gray flannel double forward-pleated trousers with side pockets, jetted back left pocket, and turn-ups/cuffs
• Cognac brown leather plain-toe derby shoes
• Mustard gold cotton lisle socks
• Gray fedora with wide black grosgrain band
• Gold wristwatch on brown leather strap

Replicas of this jacket abound on the internet, including this one (with an unintentionally hilarious Amazon product description) from Zaan Leathers for $155, but your best would probable be to find a neat snuff suede jacket with unique vintage details along the vein of Max’s leather collar, inverted back pleat, and side adjusters. It’s always best to find something you can make your own rather than striving for an identical look.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie.

Footnote

Curious about the unintentionally hilarious Amazon product description for that Zaan Leathers jacket? Let’s break down this amazing tome that was no doubt written in another language and poorly translated for English customers:

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