Tagged: Oxford Shoes

The Omen: Gregory Peck’s Green Corduroy Suit

Gregory Peck in The Omen (1976)

Vitals

Gregory Peck as Robert Thorn, American ambassador to the United Kingdom

England and Rome, Fall 1975

Film: The Omen
Release Date: June 6, 1976
Director: Richard Donner
Wardrobe Supervisor: Tiny Nicholls
Tailor: H. Huntsman & Sons, London

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

With Halloween just around the corner, there’s no better time to revisit Richard Donner’s 1976 supernatural horror classic The Omen, which marked its 50th anniversary earlier this year on June 6th—a date whose devilish numerical significance aligns with the opening scene in Rome, where American diplomat Robert Thorn (Gregory Peck) learns that his wife Katharine (Lee Remick) gave birth to a son who died shortly after birth. At the urging of a hospital chaplain, he secretly adopts another infant born that same morning, allowing Katherine to believe the child is her own. The couple names the boy Damien, and for the next five years, their seemingly idyllic family life conceals the horrifying truth about their son’s origins.

As a series of increasingly disturbing incidents and the warnings of a mysterious Catholic priest suggest that Damien may be the Antichrist, Robert begins to question everything he knows about his son. After a terrifying encounter with Damien leaves Katherine hospitalized following a miscarriage, Robert joins photographer Keith Jennings (David Warner) on a journey back to Rome to uncover the truth behind Damien’s birth. Continue reading →

Written on the Wind: Rock Hudson’s Beige Tweed Jacket for a Fall Picnic

Rock Hudson and Dorothy Malone in Written on the Wind (1956)

Vitals

Rock Hudson as Mitch Wayne, oil company geologist

Texas, Fall 1956

Film: Written on the Wind
Release Date: October 5, 1956
Director: Douglas Sirk
Costume Designer: Bill Thomas (credited for gowns)

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

German-born director Douglas Sirk’s third in a trio of lushly photographed melodramas starring Rock Hudson, Written on the Wind, premiered in London seventy years ago this week on October 5, 1956.

This Southern Gothic melodrama follows a Texas oil dynasty, adapted from Robert Wilder’s 1946 novel of the same name—a roman à clef inspired by the scandal surrounding torch singer Libby Holman and the mysterious 1932 death of her tobacco-heir husband, Zachary Smith Reynolds, at his family’s estate. Threats from the Reynolds family kept a film adaptation out of production for a decade, until screenwriter George Zuckerman transplanted the drama from a North Carolina tobacco dynasty to a Texas oil family, evidently distancing it enough from its real-life inspiration for production to proceed.

Zuckerman and Sirk’s narrative centers on the family of oil baron Jasper Hadley (Robert Keith), including his irresponsible playboy son Kyle (Robert Stack) and self-destructive daughter Marylee (Dorothy Malone, who won the Academy Award for her performance). Both grew up alongside Mitch Wayne (Rock Hudson), an honest, hardworking geologist who remains employed by the family and earns Jasper’s admiration for his work ethic. While Marylee lusts after Mitch, Mitch longs for Lucy (Lauren Bacall), a company secretary whom Kyle impulsively marries after meeting her on a business trip.

Despite all the romantic turmoil, Mitch does find time for a covert lunch among the fall foliage with Marylee, who jokes, “There’s nothing like a picnic! I’ve brought everything but rain and ants.” Continue reading →

Casino: Joe Pesci’s Gray Birdseye Blazer

Joe Pesci in Casino (1995)

Vitals

Joe Pesci as Nicky Santoro, sadistic mobster

Las Vegas, Spring 1973 to Fall 1980

Film: Casino
Release Date: November 22, 1995
Director: Martin Scorsese
Costume Design: Rita Ryack & John A. Dunn

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

After multiple requests to expand my sartorial focus on Casino from Robert De Niro’s colorful tailoring as Ace Rothstein to Joe Pesci’s mobbed-up fits, today’s post finally zeroes in on Pesci’s style as the volatile Nicky Santoro. Continue reading →

The Omen: Gregory Peck’s Charcoal Pinstripe Suit

Gregory Peck in The Omen (1976)

Vitals

Gregory Peck as Robert Thorn, American diplomat

Rome, June 6, 1970 and London, June 1975

Film: The Omen
Release Date: June 6, 1976
Director: Richard Donner
Wardrobe Supervisor: Tiny Nicholls
Tailor: H. Huntsman & Sons, London

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

The Omen was released fifty years ago today on June 6, 1976—a date intentionally selected to mirror the film’s opening on June 6th at 6 a.m., when American ambassador Robert Thorn (Gregory Peck) rushes through Rome to reach his wife Katherine (Lee Remick). Robert arrives to learn that the child Katherine has just delivered died moments after birth, but hospital chaplain Father Spiletto (Martin Benson) convinces him to secretly adopt a newborn orphan and raise the boy as their own without Katherine’s knowledge.

Unfortunately for Robert, Katherine, and the world at large, that boy is Damien—the Antichrist—but I suppose you’ll have that when someone’s birth is the infamous 6-6-6: the “Number of the Beast” described in the Book of Revelation.

Gregory Peck in The Omen (1976) Continue reading →

Cary Grant’s Tuxedo in Notorious

Cary Grant and Ingrid Bergman in Notorious (1946)

Vitals

Cary Grant as T.R. Devlin, American government agent

Rio de Janeiro, Spring 1946

Film: Notorious
Release Date: September 6, 1946
Director: Alfred Hitchcock
Costume Design: Edith Head (gowns only)

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Released 80 years ago this September, Notorious marked the second of four screen collaborations between Alfred Hitchcock and Cary Grant—who was born 122 years ago today on January 18, 1904. Written by Ben Hecht, Notorious is vintage Hitch at full boil, blending noir-tinged espionage with a romance daring enough to taunt the censors, all delivered with the Master of Suspense’s unmistakable mix of wit, menace, and nerve-shredding tension.

Notorious reaches a boiling point during a party hosted by the urbane yet dangerous Alex Sebastian (Claude Rains) and his new wife Alicia (Ingrid Bergman)—in fact a honeyspot spy recruited by American agent T.R. Devlin (Grant) to seduce her way into Sebastian’s circle of German emigrés hiding in post-World War II Brazil. Continue reading →

Dillinger (1973): Ben Johnson’s Indigo Chalkstripe Suit as Melvin Purvis

Ben Johnson as Melvin Purvis in Dillinger (1973)

Vitals

Ben Johnson as Melvin Purvis, experienced federal agent

Northern Illinois, Winter 1933

Film: Dillinger
Release Date: July 20, 1973
Director: John Milius
Costume Designer: James M. George

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

The Depression-era desperado roundup of 1934 which eventually took down the likes of John Dillinger, Bonnie and Clyde, “Pretty Boy” Floyd, and “Baby Face” Nelson began in the last days of 1933 when a 24-man strike force of federal agents and local police surrounded the rented cottage where “Tri-State Terror” Wilbur Underhill was spending his honeymoon with his new bride Hazel Jarrett Hudson… as well as his partner-in-crime Ralph Roe and his girlfriend Eva May Nichols. The subsequent gunfight resulted in one of the women’s deaths and Underhill mortally wounded.

Despite the title character’s removal from these events, John Milius’ 1973 directorial debut Dillinger gets these general circumstances correct, though it relocates the action from outside Shawnee, Oklahoma to “northern Illinois” and places rising FBI star Melvin Purvis (Ben Johnson) onsite to single-handedly lead the counterattack against Underhill, silently portrayed by Dillinger‘s cinematographer Jules Brenner. Continue reading →

The Silent Partner: Elliott Gould’s Navy Blazer at Christmas

Elliott Gould as Miles Cullen in The Silent Partner (1978)

Vitals

Elliott Gould as Miles Cullen, mild-mannered bank teller

Toronto, Christmas 1977 to Summer 1978

Film: The Silent Partner
Release Date: September 7, 1978
Director: Daryl Duke
Wardrobe Credit: Debi Weldon

Background

Daryl Duke’s often darkly comic thriller The Silent Partner was just mentioned by Letterboxd among its list of twenty underseen holiday favorites, and you’ll know right from the description if it’s the sort of thing that would interest you: Elliott Gould plays a bank teller (alongside a young John Candy) who foils the robbery plans of a sadistic mall Santa played by Christopher Plummer, pocketing several thousand for himself, only for “Santa” to swear his violent revenge. Continue reading →

White Heat: James Cagney’s Chalkstripe Suits and 1949 Mercury

James Cagney with Margaret Wycherly in White Heat (1949)

Vitals

James Cagney as Arthur “Cody” Jarrett, ruthless gang leader and devoted son

Los Angeles, California and Springfield, Illinois, Fall 1949 to Spring 1950

Film: White Heat
Release Date: September 2, 1949
Director: Raoul Walsh
Wardrobe Credit: Leah Rhodes

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Closing out Noirvmber but speeding into this winter’s Car Week, Raoul Walsh’s hard-boiled 1949 masterpiece White Heat erupts at the intersection of film noir and the classic Warner Brothers gangster film, which its star James Cagney had a hand in pioneering through his roles in The Public Enemy (1931), Angeles with Dirty Faces (1938), and The Roaring Twenties (1939). The latter had been his final criminal role for nearly a decade, as he evolved toward romantic and comedic roles including his Academy Award-winning performance as George M. Cohan in Yankee Doodle Dandy (1942).

But as his subsequent movies were unsuccessful with audiences, Cagney reluctantly returned to both the cinematic underworld and Jack L. Warner’s kingdom when he signed on to play the volatile gang leader Cody Jarrett in White Heat. Virginia Kellogg’s story was loosely inspired by the myth surrounding the ill-fated “Ma” Barker and her sons during the Depression-era crime wave, purchased for $2,000 by Warner Bros., where Ivan Goff and Ben Roberts spent six months adapting into a fictional screenplay where—much to Jack Warner’s frustration—they only envisioned Cagney to play Cody.

Following a $300,000 mail train robbery in the Sierra Nevada mountains that left four crewmen dead, Cody leads his gang’s retreat from their mountain hideout, splitting off with his sultry wife Verna (Virginia Mayo) and domineering mother (Margaret Wycherly) to hole up in a motel on the outskirts of Los Angeles. We’ve already seen Ma’s powerful influence over her son, both supporting him when he has his mind-splitting migraines and gently suggesting that he execute a wounded gang member rather than take the chance he’ll talk.

When Ma risks a trip into town to buy Cody’s favorite strawberries for him, she picks up a police tail that has Cody again at the wheel of their Mercury to make their getaway. After a night-time police chase through the streets of L.A., Cody ducks the Mercury into a drive-in theater and develops his plan to take the fall for a hotel heist in Illinois that was the same day as their deadly train robbery, giving himself a 2,000-mile alibi:

While those hoodlums were killing those innocent people on the train, I was pushing in a hotel in Springfield! Couldn’t be in both places at once, could I?

Continue reading →

Farewell, Friend: Alain Delon’s Casual Jacket and Turtleneck

Alain Delon in Farewell, Friend (1968)

Vitals

Alain Delon as Dino Barran, discharged French Army doctor

Marseilles, France, December 1963

Film: Farewell, Friend
(French title: Adieu l’ami)
Release Date: August 14, 1968
Director: Jean Herman
Costume Designer: Tanine Autré

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Last year, the world said adieu to French screen and style icon Alain Delon, who was born 90 years ago tomorrow on November 8, 1935. Among his prolific filmography that includes Plein Soleil (1960), L’Eclisse (1962), The Leopard (1963), Le Samouraï (1967), and La Piscine (1969), one of Delon’s less-remembered films is the 1968 French-Italian heist caper Adieu l’ami—which translates to Farewell, Friend (also re-released as Honor Among Thieves). The film established Charles Bronson’s stardom in Europe, though it wouldn’t be released in the United States for another five years. Continue reading →

Hoodlum: Tim Roth’s Gray Checked Suit as Dutch Schultz

Tim Roth as Dutch Schultz in Hoodlum (1997)

Vitals

Tim Roth as Dutch Schultz, volatile gangster

New York City and Newark, New Jersey, Spring 1934 through Fall 1935

Film: Hoodlum
Release Date: August 27, 1997
Director: Bill Duke
Costume Designer: Richard Bruno

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Ninety years ago today on October 23, 1935, notorious New York gangster Dutch Schultz was fatally shot along with his accountant Otto Berman, his lieutenant Abe Landau, and his bodyguard Bernard “Lulu” Rosencrantz at the Palace Chop House in Newark, New Jersey. Transferred to Newark City Hospital, Schultz lingered for nearly a day, with his fevered final ramblings about dot-dash systems and French-Canadian bean soup meticulously recorded by police stenographer F.J. Lang before the 34-year-old criminal finally died of peritonitis.

The famous gangland slaying was fictionalized for the denouement of Hoodlum, Bill Duke’s chronicle of Schultz’s war against underworld rivals Stephanie “Madame Queen” St. Clair (Cicely Tyson), Ellsworth “Bumpy” Johnson (Laurence Fishburne), and Charles “Lucky” Luciano (Andy Garcia) as the Harlem numbers racket became increasingly lucrative following the repeal of Prohibition. Though the 1997 drama isn’t without its flaws, one of its strongest elements may be Tim Roth’s performance as Schultz—perhaps the best on-screen representation of the actual gangster’s appearance and temperament. Continue reading →