Frankie Avalon’s Red Paisley Party Shirt in Beach Party

Frankie Avalon in Beach Party (1963)

Vitals

Frankie Avalon as Frankie, lovestruck surfer

Malibu, California, Summer 1963

Film: Beach Party
Release Date: August 7, 1963
Director: William Asher
Costume Design: Marjorie Corso & Renié

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Four years after Gidget launched the beach party subgenre, the formula was refined with less morals and more midriffs in the simply titled Beach Party. Released 63 years ago today on August 7, 1963, Beach Party was the first of about a dozen similar movies released by American International Pictures that occasionally veered from the beach into ski country or the race track but almost always featured pop singers Frankie Avalon and Annette Funicello in leading roles.

Filmed across the beaches of Southern California over three weeks in the spring of 1963, Beach Party established a blueprint that most of its successors would follow: a score by exotica stalwart Les Baxter supplemented by the surf rock stylings of Dick Dale and his Del-Tones; a supporting cast of older, most established stars—like Bob Cummings, Dorothy Malone, and Morey Amsterdam in this first film; and the easy chemistry between Frankie and Annette.

Frankie and Annette played essentially the same teen lovers driven apart by an easily explained misunderstanding that is invariably resolved by the close of each approximately 90-minute runtime. In Beach Party, it’s Dolores’ hesitation that drives Frankie away—straight into the arms of the buxom “Hungarian goulash” Ava (Eva Six), one of the women whom he serenades with “Don’t Stop Now” during the raucous party at Big Daddy’s.


What’d He Wear?

When not riding the waves in his swimwear, Frankie tends to favor solid button-ups and sweaters but he wears a much bolder shirt to Big Daddy’s. This short-sleeved sport shirt has a bright red base, patterned with an all-over black-and-gold paisley print that stops at the solid red sleeve-ends and hem, which is solid red below the gold squared border before the paisley medallion print surrounds the hem’s edge. Four unique golden bullet-like toggle buttons fasten up the front to mid-chest, left intentionally open at the neck with its sporty one-piece collar. Short, pointed tabs on each side toward the back of the waistband fasten through identical buttons.

Frankie Avalon in Beach Party (1963)

Off to the side, bumbling biker gang leader Eric Von Zipper (Harvey Lembeck) is rendered speechless by Frankie’s dance.

Frankie’s wardrobe reflects the character’s loose inspiration from Elvis Presley’s cinematic roles, as the King typically wore tailored sports shirts with tight, solid-colored trousers and boots. Aside from scenes where he’s swimming or surfing, Frankie exclusively follows this template. His ice-white flat-front trousers at Big Daddy’s have button-tab side adjusters in lieu of a belt, cut trim and straight through the legs down to plain-hemmed bottoms. They have frogmouth-style full-top front pockets and a single button-through pocket on the right side of the seat.

Frankie Avalon in Beach Party (1963)

Note how both Frankie’s shirt and trousers have side adjusters.

Even when reveling at actual beach parties that would perhaps call for lighter footwear in the sand, Frankie wears his usual black leather Chelsea boots and black socks. Their contemporary nomenclature evolved in the mid-20th century when the boots gained a fashionable resurgence among trendy mods in the Chelsea area of swinging London, though their development dates back more than a century earlier to the early 1840s. Queen Victoria’s shoemaker Joseph Sparkes Hall is credited with the design that he marketed as “Patent Elastic Ankle Boots”, characterized by elastic gussets. Frankie’s all-black leather boots follow the classic design, albeit with slightly shorter shafts that may have aided his dancing in sequences like this.

Frankie Avalon in Beach Party (1963)

Unlike the stodgy Professor R.O. Sutwell (Bob Cummings), who arrives at the party wearing a Calrad covert microphone watch to record his findings, Frankie never wears a watch. And he wouldn’t, would he?


What to Imbibe

The voluptuous Marilyn Monroe-lookalike Ava refills Frankie’s beer, which is unidentified in this scene but may be intended to be the Hamm’s often seen in the background of other scenes. Though the Hamm brewery was founded in Minnesota in 1865, it expanded beyond a regional brew under William C. Figge Jr.’s leadership and became the fifth largest brewery in the United States by the 1950s. Its West Coast operations included breweries in San Francisco and Los Angeles.

Frankie Avalon, John Ashley, Jody McCrea, and Eva Six in Beach Party (1963)

What is Deadhead looking at?

The original independently run operations are now defunct, but the Hamm’s label endures as a budget brand under Molson Coors’ oversight.


How to Get the Look

Frankie Avalon in Beach Party (1963)

I can’t promise I’ll be dressed exactly like this during my own beach vacation this week, but Frankie Avalon certainly makes the case for a summer-ready statement shirt.

  • Red and black-and-gold paisley-printed short-sleeved sport shirt with one-piece collar, four gold toggle buttons, and straight hem with toggle-button adjuster tabs
  • Ice-white flat-front trousers with button-tab side adjusters, frogmouth full-top front pockets, button-through back-right pocket, and plain-hemmed bottoms
  • Black leather Chelsea boots
  • Black socks

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the movie. And dance, swing, live… remember that tomorrow may be the day after today.

John Saxon’s Floral-collared Chambray Shirt in Moonshine County Express

John Saxon in Moonshine County Express (1977)

Vitals

John Saxon as J.B. Johnson, race car driver and occasional moonshine runner

Jackson County, Kentucky, Fall 1976

Film: Moonshine County Express
Release Date: June 1, 1977
Director: Gus Trikonis
Wardrobe Coordinator: Adrianne Levesque

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Moonshine County Express was produced by Roger Corman’s New World Pictures in 1977 during the height of the cinematic “hick flick” trend that often posited guys like Burt Reynolds as rural heroes driving fast cars full of booze. Directed by Corman favorite Gus Trikonis, Moonshine County Express stars the late John Saxon in its central role—no doubt due to the actor’s own considerable talent and his resemblance to a pre-mustached Reynolds—as well as Susan Howard, William Conrad, a post-Brady Bunch Maureen McCormick as a Daisy Duke protoype, and “hick flick” regulars Jeff Corey and Dub Taylor; Seinfeld fans may also recognize Uncle Leo (aka Len Lesser) in a supporting role as a bargain barn owner. (Both Saxon and McCormick share their August 5th birthday, with McCormick celebrating her 70th today while Saxon would have turned 90 this year.)

Claudia Jennings, Maureen McCormick, and Susan Howard in Moonshine County Express (1977)

Marcia, Marcia, Marcia! Except it’s Betty, Sissy, and Dot.

It would be hard to recommend in good faith to all my readers, but Moonshine County Express is the kind of movie you throw on when you want that raw, Southern-fried tale of fast-driivng whiskey runners in the same authentic, dobro-twanging, semi-exploitative ilk as Moonrunners, the 1975 B-movie that directly inspired The Dukes of Hazzard, though Moonshine County Express also features many of the elements that would be familiar in Hazzard County: a corrupt and corpulent county boss, a white-suited antagonist, short-shorted Southern beauties, and a liquor-hauling hero speeding around in a Dodge muscle car. Continue reading

Walter Matthau’s Gray Striped Suit as Charley Varrick

Walter Matthau in Charley Varrick (1973)

Vitals

Walter Matthau as Charley Varrick, clever crop-dusting pilot and bank robber

Albuquerque to Reno, Summer 1973

Film: Charley Varrick
Release Date: October 19, 1973
Director: Don Siegel
Costume Designer: Helen Colvig

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Although International Crop Duster’s Day is observed on May 27th, August 3rd was established as Airplane Crop Duster Day to commemorate U.S. Army pilot Lt. John A. Macready’s first-ever aerial crop-dusting flight on this day in 1921. More than a half century later, Walter Matthau broke from his usual comedic roles to portray the the titular crop-duster who broke bad in Charley Varrick, Don Siegel’s 1973 adaptation of John H. Reese’s crime novel The Looters.

Down on his luck as “the last of the independents” as he bills himself, Charley had organized a bank robbery in Tres Cruces, New Mexico, that tragically resulted in the death of his wife Nadine (Jacqueline Scott) and another accomplice. Charley and his remaining accomplice, hotheaded Harman (Andy Robinson), spirit away with the $765,118 haul—a surprisingly hefty take which tips Charley off to the fact that they must have robbed a Mafia drop bank.

Without waiting for confirmation beyond TV news only reporting that less than $2,000 was taken, Charley swiftly begins securing plans to make his final escape. Continue reading

This Property Is Condemned: Robert Redford’s Depression-era Cap and Corduroy

Robert Redford and Natalie Wood in This Property Is Condemned (1966)

Vitals

Robert Redford as Owen Legate, railroad representative

Mississippi, Summer 1931

Film: This Property Is Condemned
Release Date: August 3, 1966
Director: Sydney Pollack
Costume Designer: Edith Head

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Robert Redford was on the verge of stardom when he was cast as the romantic lead opposite Natalie Wood in This Property is Condemned, released sixty years ago this week on August 3, 1966 and marking the late actor’s first of seven collaborations with director Sydney Pollack.

Set in the fictional Mississippi town of Dodson (but actually filmed in the Gulf Coast city of Bay St. Louis) during the Great Depression, Redford stars as Owen Legate—a representative of the railroad that provides much of Dodson’s economic base. He literally drops into Dodson by the night train, dusting off his trousers and striding up to a raucous boarding house where the owner’s daughter, Willie Starr (Mary Badham), introduces him to rent a room from her mother, Hazel (Kate Reid), during Hazel’s 43rd birthday party. She comments “a buck is a buck” when he pays for a week’s worth in advance, prompting him to quip back “if you’re lucky” to her delight.

His room and board secured, Owen lingers around the periphery of the party, eating fried chicken and eventually meeting Willie’s older sister Alva (Natalie Wood). The popular Miss Alva sets her flirtatious sights on Owen, until he insults her by implying that “if you come with the room, if you’re included with the two meals, then let’s get on with it.” Continue reading

Richard Egan’s Cream Camp Shirt in The Revolt of Mamie Stover

Richard Egan in The Revolt of Mamie Stover (1956)

Vitals

Richard Egan as Jim Blair, writer

At sea from San Francisco to Hawaii, Summer to December 1941

Film: The Revolt of Mamie Stover
Release Date: May 11, 1956
Director: Raoul Walsh
Costume Designer: Travilla

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Though it made waves for its controversial themes and Jane Russell’s eponymous performance at the time it was released 70 years ago in May 1956, The Revolt of Mamie Stover remains a barely remembered movie today aside from generally positive reappraisals from critics and reviewers. And while Russell remains an icon of Hollywood’s brassy bombshell era, her co-star Richard Egan—once a nearly ubiquitous leading man in the late 1950s—is also little-discussed today. Continue reading

Miami Vice: Jamie Foxx’s Brown Silk Suit as Tubbs

Jamie Foxx in Miami Vice (2006)

Vitals

Jamie Foxx as Ricardo “Rico” Tubbs, Miami-Dade PD detective

Miami, Summer 2005

Film: Miami Vice
Release Date: July 28, 2006
Director: Michael Mann
Costume Design: Michael Kaplan & Janty Yates
Jamie Foxx’s Costumer: Yaa Boaa Aning

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Michael Mann’s frequently memed update of Miami Vice was widely released 20 years ago today on July 28, 2006, reintroducing cooler-than-ice detectives Sonny Crockett and Ricardo Tubbs as Colin Farrell and Jamie Foxx, respectively.

As portrayed by EGOT hopeful Philip Michael Thomas, Tubbs may have lived within Crockett’s [five o’clock] shadow in the series, but the 2006 movie gives the character more room to breathe with Jamie Foxx—fresh off his Oscar win for Ray—in the role. In fact, it was reportedly Foxx who suggested the idea of a Miami Vice film to Mann, who had executive-produced the 1980s TV series.

Despite his increased degree of characterization, the 2006 film still leaves some questions about Tubbs’ character unanswered; for example, how does he feel about mojitos? Is he fiendish or ambivalent? Continue reading

James Stewart’s Western Gear as The Man from Laramie

James Stewart in The Man from Laramie (1955)

Vitals

James Stewart as Will Lockhart, freight hauler and former cavalry officer

New Mexico, Late 1870s

Film: The Man from Laramie
Release Date: September 20, 1955
Director: Anthony Mann

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Since 2008, the National Day of the Cowboy has been observed on the fourth Saturday in July to recognize the spirit of the pioneering men and women who helped establish the American West. James Stewart’s homespun persona naturally lent itself to Western cinema as the actor’s prolific Western filmography includes Destry Rides Again (1939), Winchester ’73 (1950), The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance (1962), and John Wayne’s swan song The Shootist (1976). Among these, Stewart recalled that his favorite Western was his eighth and final collaboration with director Anthony Mann: The Man from Laramie. Continue reading

Sam Elliott’s Aloha Shirt in Lifeguard

Sam Elliott in Lifeguard (1976)

Vitals

Sam Elliott as Rick Carlson, charismatic 32-year-old beach lifeguard

Southern California, Summer 1975

Film: Lifeguard
Release Date: July 23, 1976
Director: Daniel Petrie
Wardrobe Credit: Margo Baxley

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Before his magnificent mustache and gravely voice made him a mainstay of Westerns, Sam Elliott’s breakthrough performance was in the romantic drama Lifeguard, released fifty years ago today on July 23, 1976.

In the half-century since its release, Lifeguard continues to polarize audiences as some praise it as a thoughtful character stufy of American masculinity in crisis while others disregard it as a vapid endorsement of statutory rape. While my own response falls somewhere in between, I do agree with even the film’s detractors that Sam Elliott’s undeniable charisma can’t help but to shine through even the more problematic elements of Ron Koslow’s screenplay. As the filmmakers cycled through potential leads like Beau Bridges and Adam Roarke, Elliott was considered after director Dan Petrie and his wife Dorothea noticed the actor’s masculine yet mustache-less performance opposite Roarke in the 1972 eco-horror film Frogs.

A former lifeguard himself, Elliott stars as a career lifeguard Rick Carlson working the beaches of Los Angeles County, where his easy-go-lucky barefoot life picking up chicks is washed into an identity crisis after he receives an invitation to his 15-year high school reunion while also countering his father (George D. Wallace) constantly criticizing his vocation: “You know what’s crazy? I still wonder what you’re gonna be when you grow up!” Although swayed by the promise of more “acceptable” success selling Porsches in the Valley, Rick ultimately decides to continue his sun-baked career as a professional lifeguard, having honed his abilities to the point where the only drowning allowed on his beach is drowning in tail. Continue reading

Robin Williams’ Black-on-White Floral Silk D&G Shirt in The Birdcage

Robin Williams in The Birdcage (1996)

Vitals

Robin Williams as Armand Goldman, South Beach nightclub manager

Miami Beach, Winter 1996

Film: The Birdcage
Release Date: March 8, 1996
Director: Mike Nichols
Costume Designer: Ann Roth

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

I’m honored to share my birthday with Robin Williams, who was born 75 years ago today on July 21, 1951. One of my favorite of the late comedian’s movies is The Birdcage, crafted by the iconic married team of director Mike Nichols and writer Elaine May as an adaptation of the French play and subsequent film La Cage aux Folles.

Williams stars as Armand Goldman, owner of the titular Birdcage, a South Beach drag club starring his more flamboyant partner Albert (Nathan Lane). When Armand’s son Val (Dan Futterman) reveals he’s marrying the daughter of the ultraconservative Virginia senator Kevin Keeley (Gene Hackman) who insists on meeting his future in-laws, Armand and Val conceive a plan to host the senator’s family by luring Albert away from the couple’s ostentatious apartment—allowing time for Armand to renovate himself and his home to support Val’s untruth that his father is actually Armand Coleman: a heterosexual cultural attaché to Greece… “whatever the hell that is.” Continue reading

The Four Seasons: Alan Alda’s Sky-Blue Summer Shirt and White Trousers

Alan Alda in The Four Seasons (1981)

Vitals

Alan Alda as Jack Burroughs, married lawyer

Saint Thomas, Summer 1980

Film: The Four Seasons
Release Date: May 22, 1981
Director: Alan Alda
Costume Designer: Jane Greenwood

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Six months ago, I observed Alan Alda’s 90th birthday with my first post of his seasonal wardrobe in The Four Seasons, his 1981 comedy following four pairs of couples vacationing together throughout a tumultuous year in their lives, scored by Vivaldi’s concerti of the same name. (The film was recently adapted as a Netflix series co-created by and starring Tina Fey with Alda’s endorsement, as the actor also appears as Fey’s father.)

The second segment of The Four Seasons is set during the summer when the group sails their rented boat Sandavore through the U.S. Virgin Islands. The dynamic has shifted since the salesman Nick (Len Cariou) left his wife and has brought his much younger girlfriend Ginny (Bess Armstrong) on the trip, distracting the rest with loud sex at night and nude swimming in the morning. Alda’s moralistic lawyer Jack tries to openly explore how this has affected the group, but denies to his wife Kate (Carol Burnett) that he harbors any fantasties of his own around Ginny or a woman like her, instead venting his frustrations about Nick and Ginny treating the group expedition like a private holiday:

They’re not even on this trip! They walk around mooning all the time, making goo-goo eyes. My God, if one of them farts, the other one thinks it’s Guy Lombardo!

Continue reading