Daniel Craig as an unnamed London drug dealer (but we can call him “XXXX”)
London, Summer 2004
Film: Layer Cake
Release Date: October 1, 2004
Director: Matthew Vaughn
Costume Designer: Stephanie Collie
As I mentioned in the last Layer Cake post, this British crime drama (some could call it a black comedy) was seen as Daniel Craig’s “audition tape” for the role of Bond. He was a sharply-dressed, sympathetically violent, and stoic Londoner who differed from Bond only by being a gangster instead of a secret agent. Also, Dan’s Layer Cake character was also much better about protecting his name than Bond.
His staple outfit was a very non-Bond t-shirt and jeans, although he did suit up from time to time. Towards the end of the film, Craig’s character arranges a sting to punish the lower thugs and appease the bosses. This restoration of social order in the underworld gives the title its meaning. As the boss, played by an overly-tanned Michael Gambon, states:
Welcome to the layer cake.
What’d He Wear?
For the film’s denoument, Dan’s casual look consists of a dark pinstripe jacket and jeans. The sportcoat* is a dark navy blue pinstripe single-breasted jacket with notch lapels. It fastens in the front with 2 dark blue buttons. There are four smaller matching buttons on each surgeon’s cuff.
* Update! Matt Spaiser has made some good points addressing the likelihood that this is, in fact, an orphaned suit jacket rather than a sportcoat. To check out what Matt has to say, visit his blog post from September 2015 or see his comments below.
The jacket has a fashionable cut with natural shoulders and deep double rear vents to allow easy movements. There are flapped hip pockets but no breast pocket.
The shirt underneath is a white long-sleeve shirt, more casual than most dress shirts. Dan’s gets pretty rumpled from all of the action in these scenes. It buttons down a front placket with white buttons. Both the spread collar and the barrel cuffs have double-button closures.
Unlike much of his casual wear in Casino Royale and Quantum of Solace, Dan’s shoes and belt match. Here, he wears a dark brown leather belt through his jeans. It is thick with stitched edges and closes in the front with a large brass 2-eyelet rounded square clasp.
The belt matches the shoes perfectly in dark brown leather. As he wears with his other casual attire in Layer Cake, Dan’s Chelsea boots are chestnut-colored R.M. WIlliams “Henley” style with brown elastic side gussets and black soles, worn with a pair of black socks.
Dan’s accessories are a pair of sunglasses and his wristwatch. The glasses are either dark brown or black plastic with dark lenses with what appears to be the Persol logo on the sides. His watch, possibly a Rolex Datejust, is stainless with a black dial and bezel.
How to Get the Look
Dan sports a couple different looks in Layer Cake, mostly variations of a jacket, shirt, jeans, and boots. This one combines blues and browns to look good and sharp without betraying the “no brown in town” rule to which some Britons still adhere:
- Dark navy blue pinstripe single-breasted sport coat (or orphaned suit jacket) with notch lapels, 2-button front, 4-button cuffs, flapped straight hip pockets, and double rear vents
- Medium-dark wash blue denim jeans
- White long-sleeve shirt with 2-button spread collar, front placket, and 2-button cuffs
- Dark brown leather R.M. Williams “Henley” Chelsea boots with brown elastic side gussets
- Black socks
- Dark brown thick leather belt with a rounded square brass double-prong buckle
- Rolex Datejust wristwatch with a round stainless case and black dial
- Black plastic Persol wraparound sunglasses with dark lenses
XXXX also swaps out the white shirt for a light gray t-shirt, which was a better fit with his leather jacket.
Do Yourself a Favor and…
Buy the movie.
Everyone wants to walk through a door marked “private.” Therefore, have a good reason to be affluent.