Californication – Hank’s Flappy Shirt

And we’re back to Casual Friday. Do any of you have weekend plans that’d make Hank Moody envious?

David Duchovny as Hank Moody during the first season of Californication.

David Duchovny as Hank Moody during the first season of Californication.


David Duchovny as Hank Moody, womanizing novelist with substance abuse issues

Venice Beach, Summer 2007

Series: Californication
Episodes: “LOL” (Episode 1.05) & “Absinthe Makes the Heart Grow Fonder” (Episode 1.06)
Air Dates: September 10, 2007; September 17, 2007
Directors: Bart Freundlich; Ken Whittingham
Costume Designer: Peggy A. Schnitzer


When we last checked in on Hank Moody, things weren’t going so well. He still wasn’t writing, his newest girlfriend left him for a douchey adulterous lawyer, he wasn’t writing, the 17-year-old daughter of his rival was beginning to manipulate and blackmail him, and he still had to face the fact that the love of his life was with another man.

So when he rolls into a Venice Beach convenience store around midnight one summer night, no one questions why his sunglasses are still on, his rumpled shirt is half-unbuttoned, he’s on his fiftieth cigarette, and he immediately pops open that fresh bottle of Scotch.

We might know, but Hank doesn’t know, that things will certainly get much worse. We’ll let him have his skid row moment for now.

What’d He Wear?

The scenes in question, overlapping from the end of “LOL” (1.05) to the beginning of “Absinthe Makes the Heart Grow Fonder” (1.06), are never explicitly referred to as being the same day, but he is wearing the same thing and it would make sense – given his state of mind at the end of “LOL” – that he would head directly to a liquor store.

His wardrobe for these sequences perfectly define the dejected New Yorker in a land of “California cool”. His clothes are open and flappy like many people associate with L.A., with omnipresent sunglasses to boot. But this is Hank Moody, and he isn’t trying to become a legend of the beach. He’s a city guy – a New Yorker – and his dark clothes and non-trendy sunglasses say it. They also say “Fuck off.”

Then again, so does that expression.

Then again, so does that expression.

Hank’s shirt is very dark blue with a charcoal touch. Each seam, from the collar and front placket to the sleeves and shoulders, is well-defined and the shirt resembles a surfer’s version of a standard cotton work shirt. Black buttons fasten down a narrow front placket. A pocket on each side of the chest closes with a buttoned flap as well.

The buttons are largely ignored by Hank, both on the shirt front and on the cuffs (except for the buttoned gauntlets). Hank is more modest with his daughter, leaving only the top two buttons undone. By the time he’s foraging for more booze, he only has the bottom two buttoned.

A good dad like Hank knows perfectly well that your 12-year-old daughter doesn't want to be seen in public with Hasselhoff.

A good dad like Hank knows perfectly well that your 12-year-old daughter doesn’t want to be seen in public with Hasselhoff.

With the shirt, Hank wears a pair of very dark wash blue jeans and his black and white Nike Cortez shoes, found on Amazon. Underneath it all are his standard black boxer briefs and black socks.

His black leather studded wrist strap is present with its companions, the thin black leather braided bracelet and the silver ring on his right index finger. He wears his Izod 725 sunglasses the entire time, only taking them off when it appears he’ll be scoring with “Surfer Girl”. In this sense, Hank’s sunglasses are much like Burt Reynolds’ cowboy hat in Smokey and the Bandit.

If Hank had thrown up a Vulcan salute here instead, I probably would have stopped watching the show if he STILL got laid afterward.

If Hank had thrown up a Vulcan salute here instead, I probably would have stopped watching the show if he STILL got laid afterward.

Go Big or Go Home

These two scenes serve as a fine definition for Hank Moody:

1) Hank helps his beloved daughter by lending her some adult-like advice, providing examples of his own unrequited love and wisdom from Bob Dylan.

2) Hank goes shopping late at night with cigarette and sunglasses dangling, taking an open bottle of Scotch to the mouth. This nonchalant trip results in going home and getting high with a hot PYT he just met and “rescued”.

If you know anything about this show, you know Hank isn't going to ignore what's happening behind him.

If you know anything about this show, you know Hank isn’t going to ignore what’s happening behind him.

Both scenes, of course, are laced with references to 70s rock as Hank quotes Bob Dylan’s “If You See Her, Say Hello” from Blood on the Tracks while consoling Becca after a heartbreak and uses Ozzy Osborne’s “Suicide Solution” lyrics to help a young woman in need make some shopping choices easier. When Hank naturally escorts the young lady home, they listen to Gus Black’s cover of “Paranoid” while lighting up.

If you’re looking for some consumables here, he smokes Camel Lights and drinks single malt Scotch during the whole thing. I’d tell you what brand of Scotch, but by this time the show was using Glen Deville – a fictional prop brand mentioned in another post that have been seen in several productions, including the 2001 film Blow.

See? What'd I tell you?

See? What’d I tell you?

How to Get the Look

2013-01-12 05.50.52 pm scotchThis is a rare one for Hank; he only wears these flapped pocket shirts during the first season, and – other than the black one in the pilot episode – we’ll never see it again. Shame, as it’s a pretty cool look.

  • Dark blue work shirt with black buttons down a narrow front placket, 2 button-flapped breast pockets, unbuttoned barrel cuffs, and swelled seams
  • Dark wash blue denim jeans
  • Black & white Nike Cortez tennis shoes
  • Black socks
  • Izod 725 sunglasses with brown lenses
  • Silver ring with two ridged bands, worn on the right index finger
  • Black leather bracelet with silver hexagonal and round studs, worn on the left wrist
  • Thin black braided leather bracelet, also worn on the left wrist

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the first season.

The Quote

I mention above that Hank “rescues” the young lady in need at the liquor store. In fact, he steps in with some cash when it appears she has insufficient funds. What’s his rescue line?

Unless you got some ‘fuck you’ money stashed up your who-zee-what’s-it, you’re shit out of places to look.


Looking for Hank’s bracelets? Go to Urban Wrist.

Have a good weekend.

Have a good weekend.



  1. Pingback: Hank Moody at the Gym | BAMF Style
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