The Sopranos: Tony’s Brown Glen Urquhart Sportcoat

James Gandolfini lights a cigar as Tony Soprano in The Sopranos episode "Funhouse" (Episode 2.13).

James Gandolfini lights a cigar as Tony Soprano in The Sopranos episode “Funhouse” (Episode 2.13).

Vitals

James Gandolfini as Tony Soprano, Jersey mob boss and conflicted family man

New Jersey, Fall 2001

Series: The Sopranos
Episodes:
– “Toodle-Fucking-Oo” (Episode 2.03), dir. Lee Tamahori, aired January 30, 2000
– “Funhouse” (Episode 2.13), dir. John Patterson, aired April 9, 2000
– “Another Toothpick” (Episode 3.05), dir. Jack Bender, aired March 25, 2001
– “Second Opinion” (Episode 3.07), dir. Tim Van Patten, aired April 8, 2001
– “…To Save Us All from Satan’s Power” (Episode 3.10), dir. Jack Bender, aired April 29, 2001
– “Army of One” (Episode 3.13), dir. John Patterson, aired May 20, 2001
– “Mergers and Acquisitions” (Episode 4.08), dir. Dan Attias, aired November 3, 2002
Creator: David Chase
Costume Designer: Juliet Polcsa

Background

Labor Day marks the approach of colder weather. For Mafia Monday, Tony Soprano shows off how to dress for versatile situations in chillier fall and winter weather.

What’d He Wear?

A staple of Tony Soprano’s wardrobe is a number of boldly checked jackets and sport coats. On occasion during the second, third, and fourth seasons, he wears a sport coat with a large-scale Glen Urquhart check, consisting of a large brown houndstooth check against a smaller cream and brown woven check.

Tony takes advantage of a picture-perfect moment during his daughter's high school graduation in "Funhouse" (Episode 2.13).

Tony takes advantage of a picture-perfect moment during his daughter’s high school graduation in “Funhouse” (Episode 2.13).

Tony’s brown Glen Urquhart check sport jacket is cut to be flattering for James Gandolfini’s larger size. It is single-breasted with notch lapels and a 3-roll-2 button stance. The light brown urea buttons match the four buttons on the cuff of each slightly-too-long sleeve. The wide shoulders are padded with sleevehead roping. The front is darted, and the back is ventless. The sportcoat has straight flapped hip pockets and a welted breast pocket where Tony often wears a display kerchief in its later appearances.

Tony makes the rounds during the post-graduation party in "Funhouse" (Episode 2.13).

Tony makes the rounds during the post-graduation party in “Funhouse” (Episode 2.13).

In a September 2014 interview with The Independent, the show’s costumer Juliet Polcsa noted that, as he got heavier over the course of the show, James Gandolfini was less comfortable in closer-fitting knit polos and so he would be outfitted more frequently in button-up shirts. Although this was a practical decision informed by his size, it also had the benefit of reflecting greater prestige as Tony’s power grew in the underworld.

During both of the jacket’s second season appearances – which Tony wearing it to a therapy appointment, a strip club, and his daughter’s graduation – he wears it over a black soft short-sleeve polo shirt with three light brown urea buttons. The soft, comfortable fabric of the shirt may be cashmere.

Tony listens to some tough advice in "Funhouse" (Episode 2.13).

Tony listens to some tough advice in “Funhouse” (Episode 2.13).

Tony wears his black polo tucked into black reverse-pleated trousers for these occasions as well. They have side pockets – and likely jetted back pockets – and bottom cuffs. He wears them with a black leather belt with a squared steel single-claw buckle. Due to the black in the rest of his outfit, Tony also wears a pair of black leather 5-eyelet split-toe bluchers and black ribbed wool dress socks.

Tony takes a relatively casual approach to therapy.

Tony takes a relatively casual approach to therapy.

Beginning with the jacket’s third season appearances, Tony begins embracing the earth tone possibilities and incorporates more brown into the rest of his wardrobe. For a visit to his uncle’s oncologist in “Second Opinion” (Episode 3.07), Tony wears a white mock-neck silk knit shirt with a taupe pick-stripe texture across the chest.

Dr. Kennedy should think twice before giving the Soprano family another questionable opinion.

Dr. Kennedy should think twice before giving the Soprano family another questionable opinion.

Two episodes earlier, in “Another Toothpick” (Episode 3.05), he wore a similar black mock-neck knit shirt during a dinner out to Vesuvio.

TonySopBGP-CL2d-305Mockneck

“Another Toothpick” (Episode 3.05)

For a dressier Vesuvio dinner with the guys in “…To Save Us All from Satan’s Power” (Episode 3.10), Tony wears this jacket with a shirt and tie. His plain white dress shirt has a spread collar, a front placket, a breast pocket, and French cuffs. His gold silk necktie is textured by a gold self-grid, and he further accents his outfit with a salmon-colored silk display kerchief in the jacket’s breast pocket. I believe that this is the sole time that Tony wears a tie with this jacket.

Tony takes notes during a "business dinner".

Tony takes notes during a “business dinner”.

Three episodes later, in “Army of One” (Episode 3.13), Tony returns to therapy in this plaid jacket with a dark gray ribbed knit long-sleeve polo shirt with three brown plastic buttons below the large, open collar. Worn with a pair of dark charcoal pleated trousers, it reflects the look of his earlier-mentioned therapy appointment in “Toodle-Fucking-Oo” (Episode 2.03). A light gray silk kerchief pokes out of the jacket’s breast pocket.

Another dark polo and trousers for therapy in "Army of One" (Episode 3.13).

Another dark polo and trousers for therapy in “Army of One” (Episode 3.13).

This Glen Urquhart jacket makes its final appearance in “Mergers and Acquisitions” (Episode 4.08) when Tony wears it to therapy with a slightly wrinkled white herringbone-striped cotton dress shirt with a spread collar. The French cuffs are fastened by a pair of double-ridged gold cross cluster links.

Tony's right cuff link as seen in "Mergers and Acquisitions" (Episode 4.08).

Tony’s right cuff link as seen in “Mergers and Acquisitions” (Episode 4.08).

Unlike the earlier white dress shirt, it has a plain front and no breast pocket. He also wears it without a tie, although the brown silk display kerchief in his jacket’s breast pocket adds some flair.

In “Second Opinion”, “…To Save Us All from Satan’s Power”, and “Mergers and Acqusitions”, Tony nicely balances the light and dark browns in the plaid sportcoat with a pair of medium brown double reverse-pleated trousers, styled like most of his other pants with side pockets, button-through jetted back pockets, and cuffed bottoms. Through the belt loops, Tony wears a brown leather belt with a square gold-toned single-claw buckle. His shoes and socks go unseen, but they are likely also brown.

Tony gets home after a late dinner out in "...To Save Us All from Satan's Power" (Episode 3.10).

Before…

After the Vesuvio dinner in “…To Save Us All from Satan’s Power” (Episode 3.10), Tony undresses to get into bed with Carmela and shows off a pair of light gray cotton boxer shorts and a white ribbed cotton sleeveless A-shirt.

...and after.

…and after.

The gold 18″-long open-link chain necklace he wears around his neck buries the St. Jerome pendant somewhere between his undershirt and chest hair.

Tony leaves his many gold accessories, including the St. Jerome pendant, on his bedside table with pocket must-haves like loose change and a cigar cutter.

Tony leaves his many gold accessories, including the St. Jerome pendant, on his bedside table with pocket must-haves like loose change and a cigar cutter.

The necklace isn’t Tony’s only gold accessory. He wears a gold chain-link bracelet around his right wrist, and the gold pinky ring with its ruby and diamond stones shines from his right pinky.

Tony flashes his gold jewelry at the strip club in "Toodle-Fucking-Oo" (Episode 2.03).

Tony flashes his gold jewelry at the strip club in “Toodle-Fucking-Oo” (Episode 2.03).

On his other hand, Tony proudly wears a gold wedding band on the third finger of his left hand. The 18-karat gold Rolex on his left wrist is also very appropriate for a mob boss as Rolex itself has designated it “the most prestigious Rolex model since 1956”.

Tony embraces Christopher during Meadow's graduation in "Funhouse" (Episode 2.13).

Tony embraces Christopher during Meadow’s graduation in “Funhouse” (Episode 2.13).

This Rolex President Day-Date 18238 has a 36mm yellow gold case with a “champagne” dial and a heavy Oyster three-piece link bracelet with a concealed clasp.

How to Get the Look

Unlike his many tracksuited pals, Tony Soprano’s wardrobe often shows the intersection of comfort, class, and versatility, well exemplified by the many combos worn with his Glen Urquhart sport coat.

Tony's Glen Urquhart jacket makes its last appearance during a therapy session in "Mergers and Acquisitions" (Episode 4.08).

Tony’s Glen Urquhart jacket makes its last appearance during a therapy session in “Mergers and Acquisitions” (Episode 4.08).

  • Brown light- and dark-toned Glen Urquhart wool single-breasted 3-roll-2-button sportcoat with notch lapels, wide padded shoulders with roped sleeveheads, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 4-button cuffs, and ventless back
  • Dark polo or mock-neck long-sleeve knit shirt
  • Dark wool double-reverse pleated trousers with belt loops, side pockets, button-through jetted back pockets, and bottom cuffs
  • Dark leather belt with squared single-claw buckle
  • Dark leather 5-eyelet split-toe bluchers
  • Dark dress socks
  • White ribbed cotton sleeveless undershirt
  • Light gray cotton boxer shorts
  • Rolex President Day-Date 18238 yellow gold wristwatch
  • Gold open-link chain bracelet
  • Gold pinky ring with ruby and diamond stones
  • Plain gold wedding band
  • Gold open-link chain necklace with round St. Jerome pendant

For dressier occasions, Tony wears a white shirt with French cuffs. Naturally, his tie and cuff links are gold.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the entire series.

The Quote

Is everything about everybody really about their mothers? All right, back to the other thing. For a guy like that, he’s going out with a woman he could technically not have penisary contact with her Volvo.

2 comments

  1. Le Chiffre

    Her Volvo… haha 😂
    Like the ‘captain Tibbs’ joke !!
    I would like to respectfully suggest an outfit we see a couple times. It’s a medium brown sports jacket with a blue windowpane I think. He wears it when he goes to the restaurant in the 6th season to almost kill the Leotardo-crew guy who insulted Meadow. And he also wore it when being with Ralph at the horse races. I think Tony looked great in sport coats.

    Thanks for the good job, and salute 😉

    Like

    • luckystrike721

      Excellent suggestion – thanks! I agree with you and your previous comment about Tony’s premium style by the time of the sixth season with improved quality (as one would expect for a man of his status) and better fit (important for a man with his dimensions). I’ve tried to keep track of some of Tony’s on-screen brands as mentioned in online auctions, and I do believe that I’ve seen Brioni among them.

      I’ll prioritize the excellent sports jacket you’re talking about (I know the one!) and will be sure to focus on that the next time I draft a post featuring Mr. Soprano. Salute! 🙂

      Like

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