The Sopranos, Season 6: Christopher’s Houndstooth Sports Coat
Michael Imperioli as Christopher Moltisanti on The Sopranos (Episode 6.09: “The Ride”)
Vitals
Michael Imperioli as Christopher Moltisanti, ambitious Mafia captain
New Jersey, Fall 2006
Series: The Sopranos
Episodes:
– “The Ride” (Episode 6.09, dir. Alan Taylor, aired 5/7/2006)
– “Walk Like a Man” (Episode 6.17, dir. Terence Winter, aired 5/6/2007)
Creator: David Chase
Costume Designer: Juliet Polcsa
WARNING! Spoilers ahead!
Background
On Michael Imperioli’s 60th birthday, it feels right to look at one of the more matured looks from his acclaimed performance as Christopher Moltisanti. Christopher’s signature style throughout The Sopranos had been track suits and leather jackets, though his ascension through the ranks of the New Jersey underworld brought a more sophisticated style to fit his status.
Having risen from associate to made man and ultimately a capo by the sixth season, Chris has also finally started a family with his new wife Kelli (Cara Buono) and realized his long-desired dream of entering the movie industry with the mob-themed horror flick Cleaver, which he co-produced and pitched the story to his rehab acquaintance J.T. Dolan (Tim Daly). But despite his increased personal and professional successes, Chrissy still seems doomed by his demons—whether that’s his addictions or his toxic relationship with his “uncle” Tony Soprano (James Gandolfini), boss of the DeMeo crime family.
What’d He Wear?
In two of his most significant episodes through the sixth season, Christopher wears a single-breasted sport jacket that is woven in a small-scaled houndstooth check in tessellations of brown, black, and olive that presents as a cool taupe overall finish. The notch lapels taper to a few inches above the two marbled black horn buttons on the front, which match the four-button cuffs. The jacket is structured with padded shoulders, roped sleeveheads, and long double vents, and it features the conventional pocket layout of a welted breast pocket and straight flapped hip pockets.
I thought only the Vipers made this face, Chrissy!
“The Ride” (Episode 6.09) follows Christopher and Tony on their way home from a meeting. Chris’ pre-printed directions get them lost somewhere in Pennsylvania, so Tony pulls his Escalade into a parking lot to pee—presenting the gangsters with an opportunity to pull what Chris gleefully describes as “old school shit!” when they spy a biker gang burglarizing a liquor store. To the ’70s rock sounds of Free’s “All Right Now” from Tony’s car radio, our Jersey made men steal from the thieves…
Biker: You guys cops?
Christopher: How’s your incision, lieutenant?
Tony: 10-4.
Biker: You’re fuckin’ with the Vipers here, asshole.
Christopher: Oh, really? What’s that, your Girl Scout troop?
Chris was still dressed for their meeting, looking more smart-casual than wiseguy in his houndstooth sports coat over an open-neck shirt. The dark-blue shirt has a silky sheen, similar to the cotton/polyester blends that were popular off-the-rack in the mid-to-late 2000s. Chris’ screen-worn shirts over the series came from a variety of contemporary designers including—but not limited to—Christian Dior, DKNY, Dolce & Gabbana, Hugo Boss, Ike Behar, and Retrospettiva, so this may be from one of those. It has a point collar, breast pocket, and off-white plastic buttons up the plain front and on each cuff.
“That’s who I am, you mangy cocksucker!”
About a year later in “Walk Like a Man” (Episode 6.17), Chris and Tony are back on the outs following extramarital rivalry, Cleaver exposing mutual resentments, and new professional conflicts between Chris and his frenemy Paulie Walnuts (Tony Sirico). Chris arrives at the Bada Bing strip club to make peace with Paulie, now wearing his houndstooth sport jacket over a black merino wool long-sleeved sweater with a narrowly ribbed mock-neck.
Given how much Chris “loves movies!”, it’s not a stretch to think that this may have been his own mobbed-up tribute to Steve McQueen’s iconic tweed jacket, blue turtleneck, and charcoal slacks in Bullitt—echoing the approach without copying the exact details.
Chris always smartly balances the houndstooth sport jacket with charcoal flat-front slacks. These trousers have side pockets, button-through back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms. He holds them up with a black leather belt that has a polished silver-toned squared single-prong buckle, which neatly coordinates to his black leather loafers that have shining leather bits attached to each instep strap. His socks are likely black to minimize any contrast between slacks and shoes.
After wearing a parade of Cartier watches dating back to the first episode (aside from a Rolex Datejust in the second season), Christopher exclusively wears a stainless steel Cartier Roadster chronograph through the sixth season. Inspired by the design of mid-century European sports cars, Cartier launched the Roadster series in 2001 and continued to produce them for just over a decade. The lineup included the budget-friendly Roadster S, the supersized Roadster XL, a 36mm ladies’ collection, and the Roadster Chronograph that Chris wears.
Characterized by a 43mm tonneau-shaped case with a long radiator cap-style crown flanked by extended pushers, the Roadster chronograph was offered in both silver and black dials under scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The dial features silver Roman numeral hour indices and three sub-registers counting 30 minutes, 12 hours, and 60 seconds, supplemented by an asymmetrical date window at 3 o’clock under magnified crystal. Chris’ stainless Roadster has a black dial, suggesting the W62020X6 reference, worn on the stock stainless steel three-piece link bracelet.
Though the dark shadows of this scene in “Walk Like a Man” (Episode 6.17) don’t clearly show the dial of Chris’ Cartier Roadster, the pushers flanking its crown inform that he indeed wears a chronograph.
Chris married Kelli between both parts of the sixth season, so he has started wearing a gold wedding ring by the time of “Walk Like a Man” (Episode 6.17). Less visible through these sequences is the gold St. Christopher medallion he wears on a thin gold chain around his neck, supplemented with a second necklace from the fifth season onward.
The Guns
Glock 26
Christopher often opts for carrying his piece in an ankle holster, going back to the second season when he playfully pulled a .38 snub on Jon Favreau and then defended himself with a Walther PPK in the subsequent episode. In “The Ride” (Episode 6.09), he pulls up his trouser leg to show Tony the Glock 26 strapped butt-forward on his ankle.
Introduced in 1995, the Glock 26 was the Austrian firearms manufacturer’s first subcompact pistol. It was chambered in 9x19mm Parabellum to serve as a subcompact accompaniment to the full-size Glock 17 and compact Glock 19, though with its assembly extensively reworked for a smaller frame and shorter barrel, slide, and grip—shortening the pistol to 6.5 inches long with a 3.43-inch barrel. The Glock 26’s fat grips can accommodate double-stack magazines, including the standard 10-round magazines and extended 12-round magazines, though Glock’s signature modularity allows it to feed the same magazines as the larger 9mm Glock pistols so it can take 15-, 17-, and even up to 33-round magazines. With a standard 10-round magazine loaded, the Glock 26 typically weighs just under 26 ounces.
Though diminutive in size, Chris illustrates what the Glock 26 can do in capable hands, firing at least ten shots—including one that neutralizes a Viper.
Without Tony needing to say anything more than “wooden crates… that’s good wine,” Chris flashes the Glock 26 in his ankle holster, unsnapping it and sticking it in his trouser waistband for easier access.
As Glock expanded its lineup, most calibers received their own subcompact double-stack variants like the Glock 27 (.40 S&W), Glock 28 (.380 ACP), Glock 29 (10mm), Glock 30 (.45 ACP), Glock 33 (.357 SIG), and Glock 39 (.45 GAP), which all dimensionally and cosmetically resemble the Glock 26. While these have interchangeable parts and magazines with larger Glocks of the same caliber, this doesn’t apply to “slimline” subcompact pistols with single-stack magazines like the Glock 36 (.45 ACP), Glock 42 (.380 ACP), and Glock 43 (9mm).
Glock 19 “Non Gun”
Chris later draws what appears to be another Glock from the rear of his waistband in “Walk Like a Man”. While the Glock 26 grips can only typically accommodate two fingers, this pistol fits fully into Chris’ hand, suggesting that it may be the Glock 19 which is nearly ubiquitous in The Sopranos universe. However, the shape of the pistol and the way the muzzle flashes without slide movement suggests its a “non-gun” designed to resemble a Glock.
According to IMFDB, these “Non Guns” are a brand name of Independent Studio Services (ISS) prop products which “are electronically-operated and discharge small explosive squibs that make a flash and produce smoke, but they do not eject shell casings or have any moving parts besides the trigger,” making them a safer and quieter alternative to blank-firing firearms.
What to Imbibe
This sport jacket curiously appears during two sequences where Chris breaks his sobriety, beginning with his and Tony’s impulsive wine heist in “The Ride” (Episode 6.09).
Tony: Château Pichon Longueville. 1986.
Christopher: Ohh, 1986. Show me the money!
After liberating a few cases of Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1986 Pauillac from the Vipers, Tony takes a bottle into the steakhouse where he and Chris enjoy a late dinner. Fermented from Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc, this dry Bordeaux hails from the Pauillac AOC in France.
“It has a classic pencil-lead, cedar-infused nose that rockets from the glass, a subtle floral note developing with time,” describes Robert Parker for Wine Advocate. “The palate is medium-bodied with supple red berry fruit, a pinch of white pepper and cedar, structured compared to coeval vintages and perhaps further along its drinking plateau than previous examples.”
It makes sense that this celebrated Bordeaux, which currently sells for over $300 per bottle, would tempt Chris off the wagon. “We should toast to your wedding, at least. Your kid,” Tony suggests. To which Christopher agrees: “Discipline, that’s all. Set limits for myself!” as Tony pours him a glass.
The exhilarating adventure rebuilds the connection between Tony and Chris, who drunkenly reaffirm their bond over bottles of plundered wine.
Discipline indeed, as Chris is back to using heroin by the end of the same episode. His sobriety continues this off-and-on journey through the end of the series. When making amends with Paulie in “Walk Like a Man” (Episode 6.17), he extends his olive branch a bit too far by requesting “whatever he’s having” at the Bing, instead of the club soda that Paulie ordered for him. Thus, the bartender pours Chris a series of Stolichnaya vodka over ice, descending him into a drunken stupor as he blows past whatever limits he may have set for himself. Chris gets shitfaced, embarrassing himself in front of Tony, Paulie, and the crew, and retreating to J.T.’s apartment to blow off some steam and a round or two from his Glock.
How to Get the Look
Michael Imperioli as Christopher Moltisanti on The Sopranos (Episode 6.17: “Walk Like a Man”)
Christopher Moltisanti leaves the track suits and flashy prints in his closet to affect a more sophisticated look for The Sopranos‘ final season in his tasteful houndstooth sports coat and dark slacks. You wouldn’t even guess he was in the Mafia… unless he showed up drunk at your home late at night, hootin’ and hollerin’ about “the shit I seen… fuck that, the shit I did personally!”
- Brown, olive, and black houndstooth wool single-breasted 2-button sport jacket with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 4-button cuffs, and long double vents
- Dark-blue “sateen” cotton shirt with point collar, plain button-up front, breast pocket, and button cuffs
- Black merino wool mock-neck long-sleeved sweater
- Charcoal flat-front trousers with belt loops, side pockets, button-through back pockets, and plain-hemmed bottoms
- Black leather belt with polished silver-toned squared single-prong buckle
- Black leather loafers with silver bit instep detail
- Black socks
- Thin gold necklace with a round gold St. Christopher medallion
- Gold wedding ring
- Cartier Roadster Chronograph ref. W62020X6 stainless steel 43mm tonneau-cased wristwatch with black dial (with Roman numeral hour indices, three sub-registers, and asymmetrical 3 o’clock date window) on steel three-piece link bracelet
Do Yourself a Favor and…
Check out the series.
The Quote
I don’t know about you, but my friends have abandoned me! I’ve been totally fuckin’ ostrafied!
Discover more from BAMF Style
Subscribe to get the latest posts sent to your email.
You must be logged in to post a comment.