Justified – Raylan’s Gray Suit Coat and Jeans

Timothy Olyphant as Deputy U.S. Marshal Raylan Givens on Justified. (Episode 2.01:

Timothy Olyphant as Deputy U.S. Marshal Raylan Givens on Justified. (Episode 2.01: “The Moonshine War”)

Vitals

Timothy Olyphant as Raylan Givens, proudly old-fashioned Deputy U.S. Marshal

Harlan County, KY, Spring 2010

Series: Justified
Episodes:
– “The Lord of War and Thunder” (Episode 1.05, Director: Jon Avnet, Air Date: April 13, 2010)
– “Bulletville” (Episode 1.13, Director: Adam Arkin, Air Date: June 8, 2010)
– “The Moonshine War” (Episode 2.01, Director: Adam Arkin, Air Date: February 9, 2011)
– “The Life Inside” (Episode 2.02, Director: Jon Avnet, Air Date: February 16, 2011)
Creator: Graham Yost
Costume Designers: Ane Crabtree (Season 1) & Patia Prouty (Season 2)

Background

Winona: Brown suit, black suit. One, two, three… four shirts. Two pairs of jeans. Hm.
Raylan: What the hell’s that supposed to mean?
Winona: Oh, just by looking at your closet one would think you were a simple man.

While the sentiment makes sense, Winona clearly wasn’t looking too far into Raylan’s closet when delivering this subtle blow in “The Life Inside” (Episode 2.02). His clothes may be overshadowed by his cowboyish accessories, but Raylan does show plenty of variety in the first season alone.

What’d He Wear?

Evidently Winona skipped over one of Raylan’s most often-seen suits from the early episodes, a dark gray wool suit first seen in “Long in the Tooth” (Episode 1.04) when Raylan and Rachel head out to L.A.

In the next episode, “The Lord of War and Thunder” (Episode 1.05), the suit jacket appeared again but was worn much casually this time with a chambray shirt and jeans.

This look, repeated again in “Bulletville” (Episode 1.13) and “The Moonshine War” (Episode 2.01, both set on the same day), is very appropriate for Raylan. Although his exterior demeanor is very easygoing and witty, he is a very conflicted man on all fronts. Thus, his “urban rustic” attire of a sharp suit coat with everyday casual wear and cowboy accessories may clash initially, but it all blends together comfortably for a man who can only truly control one thing in his life: his clothing.

Raylan spends another rough day in the office.

Raylan spends another rough day in the office.

Raylan’s suit coat is single-breasted with slim peak lapels that roll down to a single-button front. The lapels have short gorge seams and sharp tips, and the edge stitching is evident on close-up shots.

The jacket fits nicely with narrow shoulders, roped sleeveheads, double rear vents, and a darted front. It also has 4-button cuffs, a welted breast pocket, and flapped hip pockets (including the right side ticket pocket). The ticket pocket is wider than most, extending almost the same length of the lower pocket.

It's nice to get out of the office once in a while.

It’s nice to get out of the office once in a while.

Details like the peak lapels, 1-button front, and ticket pocket make the suit coat stand out as surprisingly fashionable elements, further proving Winona’s point that Raylan becomes far less simple the more you look at him.

Although the suit does have trousers which Raylan wears occasionally, he is most comfortable in jeans and often pairs them with his suit coats. With this jacket, he wears a pair of bootcut denim jeans in a rich dark blue wash. The low rise makes Olyphant’s torso look even longer, enhancing the “Western loner” silhouette on his already tall 6′ frame. Raylan typically wears a pair of classic Levi’s 501s.

Raylan wears a blue chambray long-sleeve shirt, an excellent choice for an anti-dress shirt man who still needs to wear the occasional suit and tie. Although many often mistake it for denim due to the durable mottled blue fabric, chambray is actually a double-ply woven fabric – typically cotton. It has badass origins dating back to the U.S. Navy in the early 20th century and has since become the shirt of choice for smart, tough, and laconic cinematic heroes. Robert Redford sported a snap-down chambray shirt in Three Days of the Condor, and Harrison Ford wore one in The Fugitive; both men paired theirs with sport jackets, ties, and jeans.

JustRGur-CL-shrt-1

Raylan’s shirt has seven white plastic buttons down the front placket. The slim spread collar is held into place by large concealed buttons that remain unseen throughout the first season, only revealed in “The Moonshine War” (Episode 2.01) after Raylan undergoes a particularly trying day. It is likely the same shirt from Merona, the Target house brand, that he wears with a polka-dot Geoff Nicholson tie and a black suit in the series’ tenth episode.

JustRGur-CL-shrt-clr

Raylan’s shirt also has two patch pockets on the chest with mitred corners and button fastening. The pockets enhance the military-styled look while decreasing the formality. The squared cuffs close with a single button and a gauntlet button further up the sleeve.

Raylan shoots back some Wild Turkey.

Raylan shoots back some Wild Turkey.

I’ve read that many of Raylan’s shirts are Calvin Klein, but chambray is typically pretty damn comfortable and durable no matter who manufactured it. A few years ago, I picked up a very inexpensive chambray shirt from Old Navy that has proved itself season after season. The natural pairing with denim and naval origins mean that chambray shirts are typically blue, but other colors have emerged as style continues to evolve.

Raylan never leaves home without his belt and holster, both brown leather. The belt is brown tooled leather with a dulled square clasp. His holster is a tan-finished Bianchi Model 59 Special Agent® thumb break paddle holster in full grain leather. This particular holster would be #19128, indicating that it fits a 4.49″-barreled (“full size”) Glock pistol for a right-handed shooter.

The Bianchi hip holster is a respectable choice for a pro like Raylan.

The Bianchi hip holster is a respectable choice for a pro like Raylan.

Though he shows no outward tendencies of a dedicated sartorialist, Raylan’s preference for brown leather ensures that his belt and boots always match. Raylan’s Western-style cowboy boots, which he describes as “fairly new” in the pilot episode, are dark brown cowhide with decorative stitching. After doing some digging around, I discovered that Raylan’s boots are custom-made Lucchese ostrich leg boots with calf leather shafts.

Raylan hits the deck.

Raylan hits the deck.

This digging around also told me that Lucchese, while a fine bootmaker, is expensive as hell. A pair of “cigar”-colored ostrich leg boots like Raylan’s could run you around $1,000 a pair. While this is reasonable when establishing the character of an action hero lawman with cowboyish tendencies over multiple seasons of a high budget TV show, a commoner like myself may look for something a little less pricy.

“The Lord of War and Thunder” (Episode 1.05) also offers a rare look of Raylan with his boots off. While getting into bed with Ava, he kicks off his boots to reveal a pair of light brown socks. Nothing thrilling about this, but it shows that Raylan doesn’t adhere to the “white socks is all I wear” policy of fellow badass cowboy boot-wearer Llewelyn Moss.

If you’re really into the details – and many folks are – Raylan wears ribbed white cotton tank top undershirts and, at least in “The Moonshine War” (Episode 2.01), a pair of dark blue plaid boxers.

Raylan gets his shit together after another romp with the ex.

Raylan gets his shit together after another romp with the ex.

The most obvious Raylan Givens accessory is his cowboy hat, custom made by Baron Hats for their long-time customer and fan Timothy Olyphant. Raylan’s 200XXX beaver hat is colored in sahra tan with a 4.25″ cattleman crown, a 3.25″ brim, and a slim brown tooled leather band with a three-piece buckle set. If you want your own, you can pony up $700 and pick up “The RG” from the Baron Hats site.

JustRGur-CX-hat

Raylan is also never without the silver horseshoe ring on the third finger of his right hand. eBay has some available for around $25 if you’re the sort of cowboy who’s into jewelry.

JustRGur-CX-ring

Raylan’s wristwatch presents a mystery to many Justified fans. He briefly sports a stainless Rolex Submariner in the pilot, but for the rest of the series – and most of that episode – he wears a watch with a stainless case and round white face on a brown alligator strap.

Any thoughts on Raylan's watch?

Any thoughts on Raylan’s watch?

Close-ups reveal what appears to be a red shield-shaped logo… possibly that of TAG Heuer, which many fans have theorized is the manufacturer?

Interestingly, and I don’t know if this is another example of me reading too much into costuming choices, Raylan wears this particular outfit in two first season episodes – “The Lord of War and Thunder” and “Bulletville”. (Yes, he also wears it in the beginning of “The Moonshine War” but that takes place minutes after the events of “Bulletville” so take it easy.) We first meet his father Arlo in “The Lord of War and Thunder”, and it is in “Bulletville” that Arlo’s choices affect Raylan’s life gravely. This could be like the Pulp Fiction bathroom principle; if you’re going to wear this outfit, maybe it’s best to stay away from your father (if he’s a convicted felon) for a few days.

Speaking of fathers... Boyd's father makes some interesting sartorial choices himself.

Speaking of fathers… Boyd’s father makes some interesting sartorial choices himself.

Raylan gets a little more varied with his shirts and ties when he wears the full dark gray suit, but he almost always wears the blue chambray shirt when wearing the jacket casually. I’ve noticed one major exception, though; in “The Life Inside” (Episode 2.02), Raylan is getting dressed after spending the night with Winona. She lounges across the room in one of his plaid shirts.

He puts on his jeans, and – perhaps hoping to antagonize her – asks her to remove the shirt as he needs to wear it that day. This shirt, which he had previously worn in the show’s second episode, is a indigo, red, and light gray plaid long-sleeve shirt with Western-style yokes, a slim spread collar, front placket, mitred button cuffs, and button-flapped patch pockets. The white buttons are accented with maroon stitching.

Raylan spruces up a little when he's on official duty.

Raylan spruces up a little when he’s on official duty.

Since he is spending the day in the office, he also wears a slim dark red silk tie. The tie has a small white triangle on the left side but is otherwise plain.

Go Big or Go Home

Although many residents of the real Harlan County, Kentucky are quick to point out the show’s exaggeration of its redneck populace, they’ll say in the same sentence just how proud they are that a show like Justified has brought it to major prominence.

Keeping true to its Kentucky setting, Bourbon whiskey is the elixir of choice for most characters. The producers admit that they weren’t very familiar with the setting before the show began, and the accuracies – both in setting and in terms of bourn branding – truly began to emerge with the beginning of the second season. Rougher types like Arlo Givens drink Wild Turkey, and the more refined drinkers like Art Mullen and Judge Mike Reardon drink Blanton’s. Raylan, of course, will happily and easily drink both.

Raylan gets plenty of BAMF moments per episode, both physically and wittily, but one of my all time favorite moments was in “Bulletville”. Raylan and Boyd drive up to Bo’s cabin, voluntarily giving themselves up to save Ava. Bo, clad in a garish American flag shirt and a pair of dad jeans that manage to totally devour his sizable gut, instructs his henchman Rufus: “Make sure and get that backup.”

Although it’s only Bo and two country bumpkins, the Deliverance-like scenario of armed ruthless rednecks is far more chilling than any Bond villain’s volcano lair. The idea of Raylan going in totally unarmed is horrifying, but Raylan approaches with his trademark wit and confidence that he can get out of any situation. (Of course, having Boyd armed and hidden helps, too.)

Raylan and Bo trade quip for quip –

Bo: I hope you know how sorry I am about this, Marshal.
Raylan: Yeah, you seem torn up.
Bo: Well, I ain’t saying I’m gonna throw myself on top of your coffin or anything, but this “bring him in to me alive” shit ain’t quite my style.

– with M.C. Gainey turning in an excellent coda to his performance as the calculating backwoods drug kingpin. Suddenly, the bullets start flying. Raylan seizes the moment, and – in one badass flash of glory – reclaims his own pistol, shoots Rufus with his own gun, kicks the revolver from Bo’s hand, and takes control of the situation.

JustRGur-LS-bamf

Watch around 1:56 in this video to see the badassery in action.

How to Get the Look

Raylan nails down the urban rustic look. Whether you’re a Deputy U.S. Marshal or just some office jockey who wants to make an impression on casual Friday, carve out your own urban rustic look with a fashionable gray suit coat, dark jeans, and a chambray shirt.

Maybe you're the sort of guy who doesn't care for cowboy hats. No worries - Raylan's look is still applicable.

Maybe you’re the sort of guy who doesn’t care for cowboy hats. No worries – Raylan’s look is still applicable.

  • Dark gray wool single-breasted suit coat with slim peak lapels, 1-button front, welted breast pocket, flapped hip pockets and ticket pocket, 4-button cuffs, and double rear vents
  • Dark blue denim bootcut jeans
  • Blue chambray shirt with slim spread concealed-button collars, white plastic buttons down front placket, mitred button-through chest pockets, and 1-button squared cuffs
  • Baron Hats “The RG” sahara tan 200XXX beaver cattleman’s hat with a thin tooled leather band
  • Dark brown cowhide leather Western-style boots with decorative stitching
  • Dark brown tooled leather belt with a dulled silver rectangular clasp
  • Tan full grain leather Bianchi Model 59 Special Agent® paddle holster for a full-size Glock pistol
  • Light brown socks
  • White ribbed sleeveless undershirt
  • Dark blue plaid boxers
  • Stainless wristwatch with a round white face and brown alligator strap
  • Sterling silver horseshoe ring with braided side detail

The Gun(s)

It’s no surprise that Raylan Givens is an expert with firearms. He uses an array of weapons throughout the show, but the most consistent in the Glock 17 he carries after the first episode.

Some have tried to cry error about Raylan carrying different weapons than he did in the pilot, but this is lampshaded in the second season premiere after Raylan is involved in yet another shooting. I don’t know for certain – perhaps an LEO can fill in the blanks for me – but it makes sense that a firearm would need to be relinquished after a shooting incident.

Tim: Relinquishing a firearm can be a very emotional moment, and there always must be another deputy in attendance. Add in some premium alcohol [Blanton’s], what could possibly go wrong?
Raylan: Thank you.
Art: Uh huh.
Tim: What are you gonna get next?
Raylan: Probably the same thing.
Art: You should think about an Uzi.

Thus, it can be assumed that Raylan had to turn in the SIG Sauer he used to shoot Tommy Bucks and the 1911 he used when he shot Boyd. Both of these incidents were in the pilot episode, so it would make sense that Raylan would adopt a different pistol for the following episode.

JustRGur-gun-glk-1

Although Raylan isn’t one to avoid getting into a scrape. Especially when guns are involved.

As he tells Tim and Art, Raylan indeed re-adopts the Glock 17. Earlier that season in “The Hammer”, Raylan says that he carries a “.45 Glock”; this would indicate a Glock 21. The Glock 21 is cosmetically the same as the Glock 17, but the 17 is chambered in 9×19 mm Parabellum while the 21 is chambered in .45 ACP. Close-ups of the pistol and the bore prove that it is the 9mm Glock 17.

Raylan reloads at Bulletville.

Raylan reloads at Bulletville. Tim Olyphant shows great trigger discipline throughout the show.

Raylan also keeps a Glock 26, also chambered in 9×19 mm, as his backup weapon. He wears it in the rear of his waistband and tends to keep it in his car glove compartment.

Raylan never really uses his backup pistol; it mostly serves as something to get taken away.

Raylan never really uses his backup pistol; it mostly serves as something to get taken away.

As I mentioned earlier during my breakdown of badassery, Raylan also gets his hands on a Heckler & Koch USP Compact carried by Bo’s henchman Rufus. The USP was developed in 1993, and the scaled-down USP Compact was introduced the following year. Like the full-size USP, it is offered in 9×19 mm, .40 S&W, and .45 ACP, although it can also be chambered for .357 SIG ammunition.

A Heckler & Koch USP Compact pistol like the one Raylan takes from Bo's henchman.

A Heckler & Koch USP Compact pistol like the one Raylan takes from Bo’s henchman.

When Raylan gets his hands on the USP Compact, he is able to turn the tables on Bo before anyone can blink. He dual-wields the USP Compact and his Glock until the battle intensifies, and he hands the USP Compact over to Ava.

Shoe's on the other foot.

Shoe’s on the other foot.

Do Yourself a Favor and…

The entire series is excellent and worth both watching and owning. The episodes used for this post were “The Lord of War and Thunder” (Episode 1.05), “Bulletville” (Episode 1.13), “The Moonshine War” (Episode 2.01), and “The Life Inside” (Episode 2.02).

(Admittedly, I’m still only halfway through the second season as of this writing. I think I can be 100% certain that I will love the show as a whole when I’m finished, though.)

JustRGur-pewpew

Pew pew.

The Quote

This is Deputy Marshal Raylan Givens. I’m gonna need an ambulance… and a coroner.

14 comments

  1. teeritz

    Yep, it’s a TAG Heuer 6000 Series on leather strap. In production from around 1986 till about 1992. These were available on a very nice and flexible bracelet, but due to the nature of the bracelet’s design, they could snap in places if twisted too much. These watches also had a Rolexy-styled magnifying lens over the date window. You can just about make out a blurry square where the date is.

    Like

  2. Mohammed

    Excellent outfit! Makes me wanna watch Justified right now but I’m waiting for the complete series to be released on DVD before purchasing.

    I would love to wear a cowboy hat but I’m doubtful if I could pull it off. I might look somewhat ridiculous, especially here in England. Maybe one day. I know I could pull off the rest of the attire (I’ve been wearing cowboy boots for almost two years now and love them!).

    Do you wear cowboy hats?

    Like

    • luckystrike721

      I just finished the second season, and I’m excited to keep going! I’d never seen it before, and I think after the 6,000th person told me to get in gear and watch it (and my girlfriend’s sister bought me the first two seasons!) I was finally able to discover it. It took me a few weeks to get through the first season as life kept getting in the way, but I was definitely hooked. By the time I was onto the second season, Justified won the battle over life, and I’ve been staying up nights watching/screencapping.

      I actually just wore my version of this outfit today; a dark gray wool Alfani suit coat with slim peak lapels, the Old Navy chambray shirt, and dark Levi’s with a brown belt and brown boots.

      Unfortunately, cowboy hats aren’t for everyone – including me. I’ve worn a few as costumes, but I think I come off looking silly. I think it helps to be tall, fearless, and agrarian whilst I’m medium-height, moderately cautious, and suburban-bred. Still, I respect Raylan’s hat and maybe one of these days I’ll have the chutzpah to try a fine Stetson out for a sunny day in the country.

      Like

  3. RM

    Will you be covering the sartorial choices of Harlan’s 3rd most badass resident (1st being Drew Thompson, 2nd being Raylan) Boyd Crowder at some point?

    Like

    • luckystrike721

      Absolutely! It’s fascinating to watch Boyd’s style evolving with his character. I’m about halfway through the third season now so I have yet to meet Drew Thompson. I will keep an extra eye out, though, and will start screencapping his attire as soon as I hear his name!

      Like

  4. Pingback: Justified – Raylan’s Black 1-Button Suit | BAMF Style
  5. Lucchese

    The boots are definitely anteater, notice the district diamond pattern. Ostrich leg is a much cleaner design even when stitched and laid over.

    That said, anteater are a lot more expensive than ostrich leg. And much more rare.

    Great page other than that!

    Like

    • luckystrike721

      Wow, thanks for the helpful feedback! This intrigued me to do some investigating over the weekend and found that, indeed, Raylan wore anteater boots throughout the first two seasons of the show. (So I have a lot of post revising to do!) I found a helpful interview with the show’s costume designer, Patia Prouty, who said that she switched his boots to ostrich leg after the second season. Since these shots are all from the first two seasons, they would indeed be anteater as you indicated. Looks like I have a lot more research to do in order to properly learn about boots 🙂 Thanks again for the input, hope to hear more from you!

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  6. Pingback: Justified – Boyd Crowder’s Hunting Pea Coat | BAMF Style
  7. Chris Sheehy

    I have seen speculation that the G17 is
    used in the show as there are an abundance of blank-firing guns if that make/model, while blank-firing G21s are scarce to non-existent.

    Having carried both, I’d much prefer the G17, esp with a 9mm G26 as a backup.

    Like

    • luckystrike721

      Chris,
      Apologies for the late response, but thank you very much for the expert input here. I especially am glad to hear it because I’ve been considering purchasing a Glock. I’ve fired a G17, G19, G21, G22, and G23; of those, I most enjoyed firing the G21 and have been seeking them out for purchase.

      My daily carry varies between a S&W Bodyguard 380 and a 2″-barreled Taurus Model 85, so my Glock purchase would likely not be for frequent carry. Would you recommend that I focus my search more on the G17?

      Like

  8. Rick Blevins

    OK, First off the Jacket is actually BROWN and it is made by Banana Republic. I know it looks gray but trust me it’s brown, how do I know this? I own the actual screen used jacket…….. 😉 Also the shirt in this episode is not the Merona shirt Raylan has worn in another episode as this chambray shirt is made by J. Crew. I so NOT have the actual screen used shirt from this episode, but I do have one just like it………. 🙂 The Plaid shirt shown in the photos above is a Mossimo shirt and his belt is made by Chambers. Yes, I have these items too………….. 🙂

    Like

    • luckystrike721

      Wow, what a wealth of information! You must be a great fan of the show to have gotten your hands on all this good stuff – I’m jealous. Are there other items from the show that you own?

      Thanks for sending the correct brands and information; I’ll incorporate here as needed.

      So the jacket is brown? That’s gonna take some eye-adjustment to get used to! Would you be able to send some photos? We can email if that would be easier (thesartorialbamf@gmail.com).

      Like

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