Vitals

Walton Goggins as Rick Hatchett, vengeful tourist

Bangkok, Thailand, Spring 2024

Series: The White Lotus
Episodes:
– “Denials” (Episode 3.06, aired 3/23/2025)
– “Killer Instincts” (Episode 3.07, aired 3/30/2025)
– “Amor Fati” (Episode 3.08, aired 4/6/2025)
Director: Mike White
Creator: Mike White
Costume Designer: Alex Bovaird

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

With Memorial Day weekend ushering in the unofficial start of summer, many gents are rotating their whites to the front of their closets.

On the latest season of Mike White’s anthological black comedy The White Lotus, costume designer Alex Bovaird contrasts the gloomy attitude of self-appointed vigilante Rick Hatchett (Walton Goggins) with an insouciant wardrobe of vibrant tropical shirts and bleached tailoring that he pulls together across the season’s final three episodes for his mission of revenge against the man he believes responsible for his father’s death: ruthless land baron Jim Hollinger (Scott Glenn).

Rick calls on favors from an old friend, the newly sober and curiously enlightened Frank (Sam Rockwell), who provides both a gun and in-person backup for his half-baked ruse to gain entry to the Hollinger home. Rick and Frank present themselves to the Hollingers as a producer and director, interested in a comeback movie for Jim’s wife Sritala (Lek Patravadi), a former actress now co-running the Koh Samui White Lotus resort with her husband.

Staggered by the situation he helped create, Rick falls nearly silent in Jim’s presence, leaving the charismatic Frank to bluster his way through describing the imaginary caper. Unfortunately, the tension pushes Frank off the wagon as he accepts his hosts’ offer of a drink—illustrating the collateral destruction of Rick’s stubborn inability to move on. This would also tragically ensnare his lover Chelsea (Aimee Lou Wood)—the hopeful yin to his pained yang—who is currently mythologizing their deep (if toxic!) connection back at Koh Samui.

Eventually emboldened by drink and long-buried anger, Rick draws Jim into the latter’s den for the confrontation he’s fantasized about for years… revealing a pistol from the folds of his linen and holding his stunned adversary at gunpoint. Will he need to pull the trigger to find closure?

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What’d He Wear?

After five episodes featuring at least a half-dozen wildly printed shirts in various colors and motifs, worn exclusively with sandals and the occasional cargo pant, Rick “dresses up” in a slapdash suit of a mismatched off-white linen sport jacket and trousers worn with one of his characteristically semi-buttoned shirts.

Given that I believe Rick went straight from GreGary’s boat to his flight with no apparent luggage, he likely picked up his new wardrobe while in Bangkok—which also explains why we’d never seen any of it aside from his watch and jewelry in any episode before “Denials” (Episode 3.06).

Rick’s single-breasted sport jacket is made from ivory linen with a low-contrasting tonal mini-glen check. The double-vented jacket is only partially lined, with a dark-blue Bemberg fabric across the back and chest, including the two inner breast pockets where Rick initially tucks his Glock. The loose cut and sporty details reinforce its informality, including the patch pockets over the hips and left chest and distinctively styled cuffs—which each close through a single beige button of the same size as the three buttons up the front.

Rick’s shirt is also linen, with closely spaced taupe stripes against a white ground. The long-sleeved shirt has button cuffs and a front placket that he wears in his usual fashion with the top three undone, showing his omnipresent gold necklace with its pair of pendants. These consist of a medium-sized black bead hanging like a kettlebell (or, apropos Rick’s mercurial temperament, a cartoon bomb) and a round tiger’s eye pendant on a gold backer.

Even throughout his subsequent night of debauchery with Frank, Rick keeps the shirt tucked into his cream-colored linen forward-pleated trousers. Full through the hips and thighs, these slacks taper down the legs, which are finished with tall turn-ups (cuffs). They have side pockets, two jetted back pockets, and adjuster-tabs on each side of the waistband in lieu of a belt.

Rather than his usual sandals that he wears at the resort, Rick appropriately pairs this slapdash suit with dressier shoes that still harmonize with the outfit’s warm-weather informality. His cognac-brown leather horsebit loafers follow the tradition established by Gucci in the 1950s, styled with moccasin-style toes, metal snaffle bits across the vamps, and flat leather soles. (Though not as prominently featured on screen as other parts of his wardrobe, the aged metal double D-ring snaffle bits on Rick’s shoes could help identify the exact maker.)

Rick exclusively wears the classic Ray-Ban RB2140 Original Wayfarer sunglasses with a dark polished tortoise acetate frame and dark green lenses (color code 902/58). Designed by Raymond Stegeman for Bausch & Lomb in 1952, Wayfarers received a style revival through the ’80s and remain iconic eyewear today.

Rick also continues wearing a large ring on his right hand, boasting a black square stone set on a darkened silver overlapping band.

Having left his Rolex back in Koh Samui, Rick continues wearing his Q Timex® GMT Quartz that first appeared in “The Meaning of Dreams” (Episode 3.03), specifically the ref. TW2W57500. Typically retailing for $219, this relatively inexpensive quartz-powered watch takes its retro-minded style queues from another Rolex—the GMT Master II with a “Sprite” bezel—which inspired the black-and-green bezel. A black dial with luminous non-numeric hour indices and white-wheeled date window at 3 o’clock is protected by acrylic crystal on the stainless steel 38mm case, secured to Goggins’ left wrist on a black rubber strap.

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The Gun

Given Thailand’s laws against non-permanent residents possessing firearms—especially concealed handguns—Rick needs to go through unofficial back channels to get a pistol from Frank (whose memorable monologue indicates that he’s considerably comfortable with various types of back channels.) Frank would certainly meet the age and residency requirements to apply for a shall-issue firearm license, which costs 1,000 Baht, though it’s unsure if his shady professional past with Rick would have compromised his ability to legally require one—or if it would have granted him the connections to surpass this red tape.

Either way, Frank provides Rick with a Glock that the latter slips into his jacket’s inner pocket—and then moves to his waistband—before his confrontation with Jim Hollinger. Based on the rear-serrated slide with its more compact four-inch barrel and the grip length that accommodates Walton Goggins’ pinky without an extended mag, I suspect a compact model with a double-stack magazine like the Glock 19—specifically an older model like the “Gen 2” series with a smooth, tapered dust cover that pre-dates the accessory rail which became standard when the Gen 3 was introduced in 1998.

Glock developed the Glock 19 as a compact alternative to the full-size Glock 17 pistol, exemplifying the manufacturer’s signature modularity with interchangeable parts and magazines between these and the subcompact Glock 26, though 15-round magazines are typically standard for the Glock 19.

After a limited series of “Gen 1” pistols, the Gen 2 was the standard Glock 19 produced for nearly a decade after the model was launched in 1988. Though the age of Gen 2 Glock 19s have imparted them with some collectible value , it also makes sense that a decades-old version of a common pistol could have fallen through enough cracks that Frank could obtain one for Rick—presumably “clean” enough that it couldn’t be traced back to him.

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How to Get the Look

Rick’s mismatched off-white jacket and trousers with a semi-buttoned shirt and bit loafers effectively communicates his scrappy, shady character rather than someone using warm-weather whites as an opportunity for Gatsby cosplay.

• Ivory mini-glen plaid linen single-breasted three-button sport jacket with notch lapels, patch breast pocket, patch hip pockets, functioning single-button cuffs, and double vents
• White and taupe-striped linen long-sleeved shirt with front placket and button cuffs
• Cream linen forward-pleated trousers with side adjuster tabs, side pockets, jetted back pockets, and turn-ups/cuffs
• Cognac-brown leather moc-toe horsebit loafers
• Ray-Ban RB2140 Original Wayfarer dark tortoise acetate-framed sunglasses with dark-green lenses
• Gold box-chain necklace with tiger’s eye pendant and black bead
• Silver overlap ring with prong-set black square stone
• Q Timex® GMT Quartz ref. TW2W57500 with stainless steel 38mm case, black-and-green rotating bezel, round black dial (with luminous hour indices and 3:00 date window), and black rubber strap

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Do Yourself a Favor and…

Check out the series, currently streaming on Max. Or, uh, HBO Max again, I guess?

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The Quote

Someone once said the secret to life is knowing when to stop.