Rebel Without a Cause – Jim’s Easter Suit

James Dean as Jim Stark in Rebel Without a Cause (1955).

James Dean as Jim Stark in Rebel Without a Cause (1955).

Vitals

James Dean as Jim Stark, confused suburban high school student and loner

Los Angeles, Easter 1956

Film: Rebel Without a Cause
Release Date: October 27, 1955
Director: Nicholas Ray
Costume Designer: Moss Mabry

Background

Other than The Passion of the Christ and those of its ilk, few are able to name a film that takes place around Easter. Little realize that Rebel Without a Cause actually begins with James Dean’s drunken loner Jim Stark drunkenly making his way down a suburban street on Easter Sunday evening.

Rebel Without a Cause is groundbreaking in many ways. The story thrusted the issue of suburban moral decay into the faces of deniers that refused to believe their “safe” post-war communities were anything but pleasant. The film also marked the first and last top billing for James Dean, who would die in a fatal car accident less than a month before its release, a sad reflection of an incident portrayed in the movie.

What’d He Wear?

Disgusted by his parents, Jim sets out in the dark brown flannel suit he had evidently worn for the Stark family Easter celebration, eventually finding himself face-to-face with the pavement and a stuffed monkey. Rightly accused of “plain drunkenness”, he is hauled into the local police station’s Juvenile Division where he sprawls out over a chair.

JAMES DEAN

This isn’t a good way to make a good impression in a police station, especially if you’ve been dragged in for drunkenness.

His suit coat, which doesn’t stay on for very long, is very typical of the early-mid ’50s style with its single-breasted front, slim notch lapels, and single rear vent. The front is 2-button and there are three buttons on each cuff.

JAMES DEAN

Jim’s trousers have a high rise with belt loops, on-seam side pockets, and cuffed bottoms with high turn-ups. Since they’re dark anyway and not often seen, I have to assume that they are pleated like his other trousers in the movie.

JAMES DEAN

Jim wears an ecru lightweight cotton shirt which buttons down a plain front with no placket. The large point collar has permanent stays, and the right collar point remains flipped up throughout the duration of the scene; not as a style mark but as a reflection of his drunken state.

JAMES DEAN

James Dean was so hip, he popped his collar without even knowing it.

The shirt also has a breast pocket and barrel cuffs that close on a single button. After he removes his jacket, the shirt’s large fit can be seen billowing out over the top of his trousers.

Jim wears a brown wool knit tie a few shades lighter than his suit. The tie is straight, unwavering in width from the knot down to the flat bottom. A small gold tie pin fastens it into place halfway down his torso.

JAMES DEAN

Like his clothing, all of Jim’s accessories are brown. His thin leather belt is light brown with wide notches and a wide rectangular gold buckle. He also wears brown leather shoes, although they are darker brown split-toe loafers with brown striped dress socks.

JAMES DEAN

Jim wears a gold-cased wristwatch with a black dial on a black leather strap. He appears to wear the same watch when he goes to school, but he changes into a different stainless watch on a similar black strap when he dresses more casually.

JAMES DEAN

When we next see Jim, he is adjusting to life at his new school and dresses in a similar outfit consisting of a brown fleck sport coat, contrasting brown trousers, and a brown silk tie with the same ecru shirt, brown belt, and brown loafers. The iconic red windbreaker that so many associate with Rebel Without a Cause doesn’t show up until much later. Both outfits will also receive BAMF Style coverage.

Go Big or Go Home

Although the Library of Congress entered it into the National Film Registry for being “culturally, historically, and aesthetically significant” in 1990, it wasn’t until 2003 when Rebel Without a Cause really made a significant impact on the future of film when eccentric, shady, and vaguely European millionaire Tommy Wiseau created The Room, his magnum opus and widely regarded to be the worst film ever made.

Rebel Without a Cause fans remember the scene where Jim, sitting in the police station, finally breaks down to his parents and screams, “You’re tearing me apart!” It’s a fine showcase of Dean’s acting ability, and a sad reminder of the career he could’ve had if he didn’t slam his Porsche 550 into an old Ford in September 1955. While Dean’s delivery is perfect, it isn’t until Wiseau “borrowed” the line for The Room that we can truly appreciate its impact when in the hands of a capable actor like James Dean… and a not-so-capable anything like Tommy Wiseau.

How to Get the Look

While not the look most associated with either James Dean or Rebel Without a Cause, Jim Stark’s brown Easter suit is significant.
rwoc1-crop

  • Dark brown flannel suit, consisting of:
    • Single-breasted jacket with notch lapels, 2-button front, 3-button cuffs, and single rear vent
    • High rise pleated trousers with belt loops, on-seam side pockets, and cuffed bottoms
  • Ecru cotton shirt with large point collar, plain front, breast pocket, and 1-button cuffs
  • Brown wool knit tie
  • Gold tie pin
  • Light brown thin leather belt with wide notches and wide gold buckle
  • Brown leather split-toe loafers
  • Brown striped dress socks
  • Gold wristwatch with a round black dial on a black leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie, and have a Happy Easter!

The Quote

Please, lock me up. I’m gonna hit somebody, and I don’t want to…

One comment

  1. Pingback: Rebel Without a Cause – Jim’s Fleck Jacket and 1949 Mercury | BAMF Style

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