Harrison Ford’s Tweed Jacket in The Fugitive
Harrison Ford as Dr. Richard Kimble, fugitive and former doctor trying to clear his name
Chicago, Spring 1993
Film: The Fugitive
Release Date: August 6, 1993
Director: Andrew Davis
Costume Designer: Aggie Guerard Rodgers
WARNING! Spoilers ahead!
In addition to being one of the best modern thrillers, The Fugitive is also one of the best TV-to-movie adaptations, seamlessly updating the characters and story to transform four seasons of a 1960s TV show into a compelling and suspenseful 1990s action flick.
After being wrongly convicted for the murder of his wife, Dr. Richard Kimble (Harrison Ford) gets a lucky break when his prison transport crashes after fellow prisoners launch an escape attempt… making him the primary target of Deputy U.S. Marshal Samuel Gerard (Tommy Lee Jones). Unlike lesser films that would try to paint Gerard as a lawman using this case for his own redemption or personally entangled with his mark, this is simply another job for the marshal.
Dr. Kimble evades Gerard and his team during a St. Patrick’s Day parade, but the close shave encourages him to continue his journey of putting the pieces together to clear his name and bring justice to his wife’s killers.
What’d He Wear?
This segment of The Fugitive is clearly set in the late winter and early spring, but Dr. Kimble’s “on-the-run” look would be just as comfortable and practical for a fall day. His outfit of a tweed jacket, chambray shirt, knit tie, and blue jeans certainly evokes Robert Redford in Three Days of the Condor, a similar story about an innocent man that finds himself on the run in the big city. He looks respectable but still rooted in workwear; when we see a tweed-and-chambray arm clawing out of an elevator, we can cheer knowing that it’s our resourceful, unstoppable hero and not his corrupt, business-suited foe.
Dr. Kimble’s outer layer is a tweed sport jacket made up of brown yarns mixed with beige and blue. The notch lapels have swelled edges, a buttonhole stitched through the left lapel, and a tan woolen strip beneath the collar that is clearly seen when Richard turns up his lapels against Chicago’s windy night air.
The single-breasted tweed jacket has two brown leather buttons on the front and three slightly smaller buttons on each cuff. The front is darted, the back is split with a single vent, and the natural shoulders have softly roped sleeveheads.
There is a welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, and a pocket on each inside panel; directly under the jetted right inside pocket, a black Benjamin label can be spotted.
Dr. Kimble wears a large-fitting and lightweight blue chambray cotton work shirt, likely made by Anto Beverly Hills. The shirt has a slim collar with white stitching about a half-inch from the edge. It has white plastic buttons down the plain front, each buttoning through a white-stitched buttonhole. The cuffs each close with a button. There are no darts or pleats on the back.
There are two patch pockets on the shirt chest, with a single-button flap over each one to close. The pocket flaps have rounded corners and closer white edge-stitching than the collar, about a millimeter from the edge of the flaps and pockets. The left pocket has a short open pen slot on the inside.
Kimble’s slim knit tie is black with sets of three thin red horizontal stripes. The tie has a pointed blade and no rear keeper loop so the slimmer, flat-bottomed tail flies free during the sequence’s many action scenes.
Part of the genius of Dr. Kimble’s attire is that it nicely walks the line between professional and casual, because—let’s face it—in America these days, most people will still think you look “fancy” just because you’re wearing a tie, whether you’re sporting it with a tailored suit and well-shined oxfords or clean jeans and sneakers.
Of course, it helps that Kimble is wearing a pair of clean, rich-colored medium blue denim jeans with a straight leg. They have a standard five-pocket layout and no visible manufacturer’s tag. Some are suggesting that they are Ford’s preferred Wrangler Cowboy Cut® Original Fit (13MWZ) jeans with the distinctive back patch removed. Although they have belt loops—as jeans usually do—Richard wears them with no belt.
Dr. Kimble wears a pair of all-black leather side-striped sneakers with black laces and black soles, an unobtrusive choice if one must wear sneakers with a dressier outfit. (Given Kimble’s predicament, sneakers rather than dress shoes was probably a good idea!) His socks appear to be basic white cotton tube socks.
A helpful comment on this post suggests that they are K-Swiss Classic VN sneakers, still available as style #03343-001-XW from the K-Swiss site.
Dr. Kimble wears no undershirt, but the elastic waistband of his white cotton boxer shorts can be glimpsed when takes a crowbar to Charles’ legs during the film’s climax.
What to Imbibe
Why, of course our all-American everyman hero drinks a bottle of Budweiser beer!
(Although, as this was set in Chicago, I wouldn’t have been surprised to see Richard downing a bottle of Old Style.)
How to Get the Look
Dr. Kimble’s ensemble in the city is perfect for blending in: rugged and durable but still fashionable enough that he can fit in anywhere from a banquet to a backyard.
- Brown mixed tweed single-breasted 2-button sportcoat with notch lapels, welted breast pocket, straight flapped hip pockets, 3-button cuffs, and single vent
- Blue chambray work shirt with button-down flapped chest pockets and button cuffs
- Black slim knit tie with sets of triple red stripes
- Blue denim jeans with belt loops, five pockets, and boot cut (Wrangler Cowboy Cut® Original Fit (13MWZ))
- Black leather sneakers (K-Swiss Classic VN)
- White cotton tube socks
- White cotton boxer shorts
Do Yourself a Favor and…
Check out the movie.
I thought you didn’t care?
A great practical outfit that in terms of a casual suit, very timeless. I wear tweed and light wool sports jackets with jeans or slacks often to work or smart casual events. A tweed jacket, a sports shirt and jeans is a very good outfit that can take you from a business casual office during the week to a backyard party in fall on the weekend. In relation to The Fugitive, I saw the film in 1993 when it came out and soon become a personal favourite, I’ve seen the film many times and never get tried of it. Keep these iconic posts coming Lucky. Another post from the film could be Tommy Lee Jones blue wool blazer, red sweater, tie and blue jeans. Laid back Gerald in the Office.
According to you, where can I find a shirt like this one?
Great question, and I’ll have to do some more investigating to find out. I was lucky to find a chambray work shirt like that one (albeit in a more mottled blue) from Banana Republic about ten years ago; it had the same slim collar, plain front, and white buttons and similarly-styled pockets. Banana’s current lineup doesn’t appear to have anything applicable but there are always strong work shirt options at places like Gap and J. Crew with styles that vary slightly from year to year. I’ll keep an extra eye out for you!
I just received confirmation that the original shirt was made for Harrison Ford by Anto Shirts, if that’s helpful!
The jeans could possibly be Wranglers, they may have taken the label off to make them look like a cheaper pair that Kimble grabbed at a thrift shop along with the tweed jacket.
Try eBay (or Etsy) for JCPenney Big Mac chambray work shirts. Still a couple out there!
I believe the shoes are all black KSwiss classics. A good choice, and a shoe still available today. I have several pairs myself. You can actually still play tennis in them if you want.
Could the jeans be Wrangler 13MWZs? I know Ford has worn them in other films.
Could possibly be, the wrangler straight fit jeans haven’t changed that much since 1993. I think he wore a similar pair in The Devil’s Own with a navy blazer.
Thanks for the helpful feedback about the jeans and shoes! Incorporating these ideas into the post.
Be good to see a write up on Ford’s navy blazer, blue jeans and casual shirt in The Devil’s Own.
What was the Overcoat Ford wore in “The Fugitive?” – He got rid of it while blending in at the St. Patrick’s Parade.