Chinatown – Gittes’ Tan Birdseye Tweed Sportcoat

Jack Nicholson as J.J.

Jack Nicholson as J.J. “Jake” Gittes in Chinatown (1974).

Vitals

Jack Nicholson as J.J. Gittes, private investigator and ex-policeman

Los Angeles, September 1937

Film: Chinatown
Release Date: June 20, 1974
Director: Roman Polanski
Costume Designer: Anthea Sylbert

Background

When not donning a more businesslike gray for his investigations in the city, J.J. Gittes shows a clear preference for earth tones. He is seen earlier wearing a cream suit around the office, and he sports a nice sandy brown three-piece when visiting the Mulwray home.

Gittes heads out to Catalina Island to meet Noah Cross, played by a charmingly sinister John Huston, for lunch. Following lunch, Gittes follows tip after tip, taking him from the hall of records to the San Fernando Valley orange groves to a dubiously-administrated retirement home. Nearly each step of his journey is met with increasing resistance, but he is luckily dressed for his long day in arguably his most comfortable outfit in the movie.

What’d He Wear?

Costume designer Anthea Sylbert had a very distinctive look in mind when she sketched Gittes’ attire for this sequence, combining a busy mishmash of patterns and fabrics to ultimately (and almost miraculously) create a timeless and fashionable – albeit somewhat anachronistic for 1937.

CHINATOWN

Anthea Sylbert’s original vision of J.J. Gittes was well-translated onto the screen.

Gittes’ outfit is comprised of a tan wool sport coat and khakis with a checked shirt, printed tie, and – like a good 1930s gentleman – fedora. The outfit nicely complements Chinatown‘s desert palette without limiting its own creativity.

CHINATOWN

Gittes’ tan tweed sportcoat is woven in a large birdseye fret pattern that is best described as a Deco version of a Greek key motif. It’s a distinctive and luxurious pattern that further sets Gittes apart from the “salt-of-the-earth” folks he encounters when he ventures outside of L.A. He may try to de-urbanize his wardrobe by wearing a sport coat and slacks rather than a flashy three-piece suit, but his clothing is still too stylish to let him fit in as a “man of the people”.

CHINATOWN

Don’t let the nosy fella’s bandage distract you… check out that distinctive birdseye/Greek key pattern on the jacket. Is there a better name for it than I’ve deciphered?

The sportcoat is single-breasted with a two-button front that he wears open throughout the day. The large notch lapels are a smidge too big to be ’30s (although very fitting for 1974…) with swelled edges present from the lapels to the pockets. A white linen handkerchief puffs out of his welted breast pocket. The large patch pockets on each hip have a narrow flap.

CHINATOWN

Gittes makes his way through the county records office.

Gittes’ sportcoat is another example of an “action back” tweed jacket that was very popular in the ’30s. (BAMF Style previously broke down an action back jacket as part of Warren Beatty’s tweed three-piece suit in 1967’s Bonnie and Clyde. Coincidentally enough, another Faye Dunaway movie.)

The action back jacket is distinctive for its typically belted back with pleated, bi-swing shoulders that are designed to allow much greater arm movement. Sometimes, these jackets also feature a center pleat but Gittes’ jacket only has the “pleat[s] at shoulder” that Sylbert called for in her design.

CHINATOWN

Although an action back jacket won’t help you get up after you’ve been knocked out by an angry Okie’s crutch.

The shoulders themselves are softly padded with heavily roped sleeveheads and four buttons at each cuff that match the brown-toned horn buttons on the front. Like the notes on Sylbert’s sketch called for, the jacket indeed has a “half belt” back with “soft gathers on top only”.

CHINATOWN

Bonus points to the old man in the white shirt for having the greatest mustache this side of Ron Swanson.

Gittes wears a pair of medium-low rise darted front stone-colored trousers. They are roomy throughout the leg with a crease extending down from the first belt loop down to the flared cuffed bottoms. Gittes’ chinos have straight on-seam side pockets and jetted rear pockets with no buttons.

CHINATOWN

Gittes struts out of the Albacore Club, which is actually the Tuna Club on Santa Catalina Island.

Ever the colorful dresser, Gittes forgoes the traditional brown leather belt for a striped cotton belt. The belt consists of three equal width stripes – dark blue on top and bottom with bright yellow running through the center. The buckle is barely seen, but it appears to be brass.

CHINATOWN

Gittes sees plenty of action, both in the orange groves and in Evelyn’s bedroom. (Hey-oo!)

Gittes’ ecru cotton shirt has a fine brown overcheck. The long point collar has a narrow spread, and the shirt buttons down a front placket. The rounded barrel cuffs also close with a button.

CHINATOWN

The division between the stylish city dude Gittes and the angry Okies is further drawn by the “J.J.G.” monogrammed on the box-pleated pocket of his shirt. By the time they see it, though, they appear to sympathize with him more than on their first meeting.

CHINATOWN

A fight is no way to treat a monogrammed shirt.

Gittes’ tie is printed with a series of reddish-brown Deco swirls on a mustard gold silk ground. He ties it in a four-in-hand and wears it slightly long for 1937 as it hangs down to the waist line of his lower rise trousers. It fastens into place at mid-torso with a gold tie bar.

Gittes wears a pair of cognac brown suede 5-eyelet short-wing oxford borgues with tan socks that nicely match the leg line of his khakis. A decade later, chukka boots (or desert boots) would come into popularity and likely would’ve been worn by Gittes had the story been set fifteen years later. Of course, that’s only speculation, but I think desert boots would work equally as well with this outfit.

CHINATOWN

Gittes extends the earth tones and desert palette to his accessories, as he should. His fedora is brown felt with a wide brown grosgrain ribbon and a high pinched crown. It’s an awfully sunny day so the relatively short-brimmed hat needs some help; Gittes also dons a pair of simple rimless sunglasses with brown round lenses held into place by thin gold arms.

CHINATOWN

How to accessorize like a snazzy private eye.

Gittes wears a gold watch on his left wrist with a brown leather strap.

So You Wanna Be a Private Eye?

This sequence is loaded with some of Gittes’ finest P.I. tricks, including a cavalier bit at the Hall of Records. After a snooty clerk prevents Gittes from borrowing a book, Gittes asks to borrow a ruler:

Yeah. The print’s real fine. I left my glasses home. I’d like to be able to read across.

The clerk, who is much more of an asshole than he should be, slaps the ruler down on the desk. Gittes smarmily thanks him and takes the ruler back to the recordbook where he lines it up against the owners’ column. With a loud cough, he muffles the sound of the ensuing rip and stashes the names of the new owners in his pocket.

CHINATOWN

Take that, big government!

Without being familiar with the scene, one might think that Gittes is the one being an asshole here, but a poster on the IMDB message board explained the beauty of the scene and the necessity of the snooty clerk:

You know what’s so great about his being such a snot, and why it works so well for the scene? It takes the edge off when Jake, a moment later, rips out the part of the page showing the land sales. We already know Jake’s a guy that bends (and sometimes breaks) rules, but Towne and Polanski cleverly make sure that we’re still 100% with him when he destroys a county document, because he’s not only getting the information he needs, he’s putting one over on the officious little “weasel.”… Like I said: clever. There’s not a detail in Chinatown that’s wasted or serves no purpose.

Gittes also gets a chance to put his quick wit to good use at the Mar Vista retirement home when he and Evelyn pretend to be seeking a nursing home for his father from the bureaucratic Mr. Palmer.

Gittes: Do you accept people of the Jewish persuasion?
Palmer: I’m sorry, we do not.
Gittes: Don’t apologize – neither does Dad.

How to Get the Look

Gittes’ look translates well throughout the decades, although the devil is in the details. Every item – from the monogrammed check shirt, Deco tie, and striped belt to the unique Greek key action back jacket – is especially distinctive to both the man and the era. Since you’re a different man in a different era, be inspired… but don’t be a copycat!

China10-crop

  • Tan birdseye Greek key fret tweed single-breasted “action back” sportcoat with large notch lapels, 2-button front, welted breast pocket, flapped patch hip pockets, “bi-swing” pleated shoulders, 4-button cuffs, and belted back
  • Ecru (w/ fine brown overcheck) cotton shirt with long point collar, front placket, monogrammed box-pleat breast pocket, and button cuffs
  • Mustard gold silk four-in-hand necktie with reddish-brown Deco swirls
  • Gold tie bar
  • Stone-colored darted front chino trousers with belt loops, on-seam side pockets, jetted rear pockets, and flared cuffed bottoms/turn-ups
  • Dark blue and yellow striped cotton web belt with brass claw buckle
  • Brown sueded leather 5-eyelet short-wing oxford brogues
  • Tan dress socks
  • Brown felt fedora with wide brown grosgrain ribbon
  • Rimless sunglasses with dark brown lenses and gold arms
  • Gold wristwatch on brown leather strap

Do Yourself a Favor and…

Buy the movie. And if you’re eating fish for lunch, try it with the head… just don’t serve the chicken that way.

The Quote

Gittes: In Chinatown.
Evelyn: What were you doing there?
Gittes: Working for the District Attorney.
Evelyn: Doing what?
Gittes: As little as possible.

6 comments

  1. teeritz

    One of my Top Five favourite films. As was stated in Premiere magazine once, “the only flaw in this movie is in Evelyn’s iris.”
    And it’s funny when you watch the sequel, “The Two Jakes” (set eleven years later), and we see Gittes return to the Hall of Records to find that the ‘weasel’ is still working there in the same capacity. t

    Like

    • luckystrike721

      I still haven’t seen The Two Jakes! As a fellow Chinatown devotee, I think I will need to soon, especially if it shows up on Netflix. As long as it’s a better sequel than The Sting II, I know I’ll at least be entertained.

      Like

  2. Pingback: Chinatown – J.J. Gittes’ Light Gray Suit | BAMF Style

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