Tagged: Sport Coat & Slacks

Killer’s Kiss: Jamie Smith’s Nailhead Jacket and Knitwear

Jamie Smith as Davey Gordon in Killer’s Kiss (1955)

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Jamie Smith as Davey Gordon, washed-up welterweight boxer

New York City, Fall 1954

Film: Killer’s Kiss
Release Date: October 1, 1955
Director: Stanley Kubrick

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Stanley Kubrick’s independently produced sophomore film Killer’s Kiss was released 70 years ago this fall—premiering in New York City on September 21, 1955, followed by a wider release on October 1st.

Pittsburgh-born Jamie Smith stars as burned-out ex-boxer Davey Gordon, whose growing romantic involvement with his neighbor—the alluring blonde taxi dancer Gloria Price (Chris Chase, credited as Irene Kane)—sets him dangerously at odds with her shady employer, Vincent Rapallo (Frank Silvera). Inventively shot and economically packaged (if somewhat underwritten) on a $75,000 budget, this tight thriller clocks in just under 70 minutes, benefiting from on-location shooting across New York from Penn Station and Times Square to the Brooklyn waterfront and “Hell’s Hundred Acres” in SoHo.

As Davey and Gloria plot their escape from the neon-lit nights of 1950s New York, the storyline and atmosphere read like a blend of Detour (1945) and Sweet Smell of Success (1957), making this little-known landmark noir an ideal starting point for Noirvember! Continue reading

Goodfellas: De Niro’s Windowpane Sport Jacket as Jimmy Conway

Robert De Niro as Jimmy Conway in Goodfellas (1990)

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Robert De Niro as Jimmy Conway, feared mob associate

Queens, New York, Spring 1980

Film: Goodfellas
Release Date: September 19, 1990
Director: Martin Scorsese
Costume Designer: Richard Bruno

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Today marks 35 years since the release of Goodfellas, Martin Scorsese’s kinetic crime epic chronicling three decades of Mafia life through the eyes of real-life Lucchese family associate-turned-informant Henry Hill (Ray Liotta). Though Henry was the ostensible protagonist, top billing went to Robert De Niro as one of Henry’s mentors-in-crime, Jimmy Conway. Continue reading

Shaft in Africa: Richard Roundtree’s Blazer and Turtleneck

Richard Roundtree as John Shaft in Shaft in Africa (1973)

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Richard Roundtree as John Shaft, tough private detective

New York City to Ethiopia via Paris, Winter 1972

Film: Shaft in Africa
Release Date: June 20, 1973
Director: John Guillermin
Wardrobe Credit: Frank Balchus

Background

Released just shy of two years after the first Shaft movie, Shaft in Africa was the third of the original Shaft trilogy that launched the late Richard Roundtree—born 83 years ago today on July 9, 1942—to stardom.

Shaft in Africa begins with Shaft in… uh, New York, where he’s kidnapped by representatives of Emir Ramila (Cy Grant), an East African tribal leader who wishes the famed private detective to infiltrate an European smuggling ring that’s exploiting African immigrants for cheap labor. When threatening him at gunpoint, offering him $25,000, and appealing to his emotions don’t seem to work, the emir and Colonel Gonder (Marne Maitland) finally appeal to Shaft’s circumcised Achilles heel by introducing him to the emir’s attractive daughter, Aleme (Vonetta McGee), who is assigned to teach this “uptown dude” the Manta dialect and tribal traditions.

Though the first act was indeed set and filmed in New York, the rest of Shaft in Africa was filmed on location in Ethiopia—reportedly only the third major production to be shot in the country. From its globe-trotting locations to the gadgetry issued to Shaft, Shaft in Africa clearly aligns John Shaft with James Bond… even though Shaft himself responds to the technology by telling Gonder:

Now, I’m not James Bond, simply Sam Spade.

Continue reading

Robert Ryan in The Wild Bunch

Robert Ryan as Deke Thornton in The Wild Bunch (1969)

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Robert Ryan as Deke Thornton, conflicted bounty hunter and ex-bandit

Texas to Mexico, Spring 1913

Film: The Wild Bunch
Release Date: June 18, 1969
Director: Sam Peckinpah
Costume Designer: James R. Silke

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Released today in 1969, The Wild Bunch reimagined the American frontier on screen. The New Hollywood movement ushered in a new level of brutality with films like Bonnie and Clyde (1967), which—along with his frustration over the Vietnam War and the lack of realism in earlier depictions of the Old West—inspired director Sam Peckinpah to return behind the lens.

Based on a screenplay co-written by Peckinpah, Walon Green, and Roy N. Sickner, The Wild Bunch follows an aging gang led by the grizzled Pike Bishop (William Holden), pursued into Mexico by a posse of ragtag bounty hunters led by Pike’s former partner, Deke Thornton (Robert Ryan), against the backdrop of the nation’s decade-long revolution. Continue reading

The Truman Show: Jim Carrey’s Brown Plaid Jacket and Yellow Sweater

Jim Carrey as Truman Burbank in The Truman Show (1999)

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Jim Carrey as Truman Burbank, affable insurance salesman and unsuspecting reality TV star

“Seahaven Island”, Spring 1997

Film: The Truman Show
Release Date: June 5, 1998
Director: Peter Weir
Costume Designer: Marilyn Matthews

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Four days after its Los Angeles premiere, The Truman Show was released widely on this day in 1998. A critical and commercial success, the film earned three Academy Award nominations and marked a major turning point for Jim Carrey, who until then had been known almost exclusively for comedy. Though Carrey carried over elements of his elastic comic persona, his performance as Truman Burbank signaled a shift toward more serious roles, paving the way for later dramatic turns in Man on the Moon (1999) and Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind (2004).

We meet 29-year-old Truman Burbank on Wednesday, May 14, 1997—the 10,909th day of his life… and the 10,909th day of a massively successful TV show secretly documenting every moment of it, 24/7. Continue reading

Don Draper’s Gray Jacket and Striped Tie for a “Zou Bisou” Birthday Surprise

Jon Hamm and Jessica Paré on Mad Men, Episode 5.01: “A Little Kiss, Part 1”. Photo by Ron Jaffe/AMC.

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Jon Hamm as Don Draper, 40-year-old remarried ad man

New York City, June 1966

Series: Mad Men
Episode: “A Little Kiss, Part 1” (Episode 5.01)
Air Date: March 25, 2012
Director: Jennifer Getzinger
Creator: Matthew Weiner
Costume Designer: Janie Bryant

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Mad Men‘s fifth season double-episode premiere “A Little Kiss” begins on Memorial Day 1966 and follows through the next weekend, when Don Draper’s new wife Megan (Jessica Paré) curiously decides to throw her husband a surprise 40th birthday party… despite knowing literally anything about him. Continue reading

French Connection II: Gene Hackman’s Windowpane Jacket and Aloha Shirt

Gene Hackman as “Popeye” Doyle in French Connection II (1975)

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Gene Hackman as Jimmy “Popeye” Doyle, gruff NYPD narcotics detective

Marseille, France, Spring 1975

Film: French Connection II
Release Date: May 21, 1975
Director: John Frankenheimer
Costume Designer: Pierre Nourry

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

A lot of people may not even know they made a sequel to The French Connection. And why’s that? Because they didn’t really need to make it. But Gene Hackman’s portrayal of the profane detective “Popeye” Doyle was lightning in a bottle, and the late actor went two for two in bringing Popeye to the screen.

The French Connection‘s director William Friedkin was more reluctant than its star to get involved, citing French Connection II and follow-ups to The Exorcist as “shit… simply made to cash in on the title.” Hackman may have agreed with Hurricane Billy but was admirably never shy about admitting when a movie was simply a “money job,” as he tersely described The Poseidon Adventure to Ben Stiller when the two co-starred in The Royal Tenenbaums.

And so Hackman reprised his Academy Award-winning role for French Connection II, released fifty years ago today on May 21, 1975. The sequel—which indeed does not include the definite article “The” in the title—picks up the action shortly after its predecessor, with NYPD narc Doyle still on the trail of the elusive and urbane drug kingpin Alain Charnier (Fernando Rey), who absconded to his native Marseille after the events of The French Connection. Continue reading

Rosemary’s Baby: John Cassavetes’ Light Blue Summer Sport Jacket

John Cassavetes and Mia Farrow in Rosemary’s Baby (1968). Photo by Paul Slade.

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John Cassavetes as Guy Woodhouse, ambitious actor

New York City, Summer 1965

Film: Rosemary’s Baby
Release Date: June 12, 1968
Director: Roman Polanski
Costume Designer: Anthea Sylbert

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Happy Mother’s Day! In honor of one of cinema’s most infamous pregnancies, today’s post looks at the enduring style of Rosemary’s Baby—Roman Polanski’s 1968 adaptation of Ira Levin’s best-selling horror novel, which had been published less than six months before filming began.

Though the film’s fashion legacy largely belongs to Mia Farrow’s iconic pixie cut and stylish wardrobe as the titular Rosemary Woodhouse, her on-screen husband Guy—a struggling actor played by John Cassavetes—also exhibits a sharp and understated sense of style. Continue reading

A Matter of Life and Death: David Niven’s Houndstooth Jacket

David Niven in A Matter of Life and Death (1946)

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David Niven as Squadron Leader Peter David Carter, charismatic Royal Air Force pilot

Southern English Coast, Spring 1945

Film: A Matter of Life and Death
Release Date: November 1, 1946
Directed by: Michael Powell & Emeric Pressburger
Costume Designer: Hein Heckroth

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Powell and Pressburger’s marvelous Technicolor fantasty-romance A Matter of Life and Death begins eighty years ago today, “the night of the second of May, 1945.”

Less than a week until the German surrender that effectively ended the European theater of World War II, a Lancaster bomber is returning through the fog over the English Channel after a Royal Air Force mission over Germany that resulted in the aircraft’s terminal damage. His radio operator dead and the rest of the crew bailed out on his orders, the poetic Squadron Leader Peter David Carter (David Niven) sits alone at the controls, communicating to the charming U.S. Army Air Forces technician June (Kim Hunter), who attempts in vain to reassure the pilot while he offers his own reassurance that he isn’t afraid to meet whatever awaits him:

Hello, June, don’t be afraid. It’s quite simple—we’ve had it, and I’d rather jump than fry. After the first thousand feet, what’s the difference? I shan’t know anything anyway. I say, I hope I haven’t frightened you… you’ve got a good voice, you’ve got guts, too! It’s funny, I’ve known dozens of girls—I’ve been in love with some of them—but an American girl who I’ve never seen, who I never shall see, will hear my last words. It’s funny. It’s rather sweet! June, if you’re around when they pick me up, turn your head away.

With his own parachute damaged and the Lancaster hurtling toward a fiery fate, Peter stoically accepts the inevitability of death (“I’ll be a ghost and come and see you! You’re not frightened of ghosts, are you? It’d be awful if you were.”) and relays a few final messages for June to pass along to his mother and sisters before bailing from the craft. Continue reading

Blue Velvet: Kyle MacLachlan’s Black Jacket

Kyle MacLachlan in Blue Velvet (1986)

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Kyle MacLachlan as Jeffrey Beaumont, inquisitive college student

Lumberton, North Carolina, Spring 1985

Film: Blue Velvet
Release Date: September 19, 1986
Director: David Lynch
Costumer: Ronald Leamon

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Today marks the 66th birthday of Kyle MacLachlan, star of the late David Lynch’s neo-noir thriller Blue Velvet. Lynch and “Kale” had first collaborated two years earlier for the director’s adaptation of Frank Herbert’s Dune, which was met with poor reception. Undeterred, Lynch shifted direction with Blue Velvet, a more personal project that delved into his now-familiar themes of surrealism and the dark, oft-criminal underbelly of Americana.

MacLachlan stars as Jeffrey Beaumont, a college student who returns to his hometown of Lumberton, North Carolina to help his family following his father’s heart attack. Taking a secluded shortcut to his parents’ home after a hospital visit, Jeffrey discovers a severed ear in a vacant field… launching him into a dangerous conspiracy involving a sultry lounge singer and a sadistic gangster. Continue reading