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Keith David’s Ochre ’70s Suede and Plaid in the Duster Finale
Keith David as Ezra Saxton in the series finale of Duster.
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Keith David as Ezra “Sax” Saxton, ruthless but complex Arizona crime boss
American Southwest, Summer 1972
Series: Duster
Episode: “66 Reno Split” (Episode 1.08)
Air Date: July 3, 2025
Director: Darren Grant
Created by: J.J. Abrams & LaToya Morgan
Costume Designer: Dayna Pink
WARNING! Spoilers ahead!
Background
Just because Duster was unfortunately canceled by HBO Max after its first season finale aired two months ago today doesn’t mean that I’ve forgotten about it. Luckily, the showrunners told a comprehensive story in the first season that generally concluded Keith David’s arc as the charismatic crime boss Ezra Saxton. Continue reading
The White Lotus: Walton Goggins’ Linen Dandy Del Mar Beach Set
Walton Goggins and Aimee Lou Wood on The White Lotus, Episode 3.08: “Amor Fati”. Photo by Fabio Lovino.
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Walton Goggins as Rick Hatchett, troubled tourist and “victim of [his] own decisions”
Koh Samui, Thailand, Spring 2024
Series: The White Lotus
Episode: “Amor Fati” (Episode 3.08)
Air Date: April 6, 2025
Director: Mike White
Creator: Mike White
Costume Designer: Alex Bovaird
WARNING! Spoilers ahead!
Background
It seems like every month I’m checking in on my man Walton Goggins, but I can’t help myself after seeing how Alex Bovaird’s Emmy-nominated costume design dressed Rick Hatchett exactly in my summer aesthetic on The White Lotus. Whether he’s in wild tropical-printed shirts and cargo pants or a chic matching set from Dandy Del Mar, Rick’s vacation wardrobe hits all the right notes.
I first discovered the Cali-based brand Dandy Del Mar back in 2020 through their retro-informed swimwear and terry-forward loungewear, and as the brand’s collection of leisurewear has grown, so has my personal stash. (This isn’t a sponsored post, I swear—I’m just a big fan!) Naturally, I was thrilled when I saw Rick sporting one of their matching sets during his emotional reunion with Chelsea on the beach in Koh Samui during the latest season finale.
As this summer draws closer to an end, let’s look back at how Rick Hatchett dressed toward the end of his fateful stay at the White Lotus this year. Continue reading
Duster: Josh Holloway’s Black Zip Polo and 1970 Plymouth
Josh Holloway as Jim Ellis in the pilot episode of Duster. Photo credit: James Van Evers.
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Josh Holloway as Jim Ellis, getaway driver and Army veteran
American Southwest, Summer 1972
Series: Duster
Episode: “Baltimore Changes Everything” (Episode 1.01)
Air Date: May 15, 2025
Director: Steph Green
Created by: J.J. Abrams & LaToya Morgan
Costume Designer: Dayna Pink
WARNING! Spoilers ahead!
Background
One of the most fun new shows of 2025 is Duster, a breezy-yet-badass crime thriller that screeched onto HBO Max this spring and just wrapped its first season last week. Despite my current enthusiasm for the series, its initial announcement prompted what can only be described as deeply conflicted car-guy feelings—equal parts excited (a ’70s-set crime series starring my dream car? yes, please) and irrationally anxious (what if this makes Dusters too popular for me to afford one?)
Once I decided that this was a ridiculous basis for resentment, I locked into Duster—and I’m glad I did! Duster delivers plenty of stylish retro fun, complete with a swaggering soundtrack, Dayna Pink’s period-perfect costume design, and a rubber-burning parade of car stunts performed by both veteran stuntman Corey Eubanks and series star Josh Holloway.
Set against the dusty backdrop of the American southwest in 1972, Duster stars Holloway as a talented getaway driver who gets recruited by the FBI’s first Black woman agent Nina Hayes (Rachel Hilson) to turn against his employer, Phoenix crime boss Ezra “Sax” Saxton (Keith David)—described by one of Nina’s new colleagues as “the Southwest Al Capone.” (The FBI didn’t actually hire its first Black woman agent until four years later, when 27-year-old Sylvia Mathis graduated from the FBI Academy in June 1976.)
As one of the few who had never seen Lost, I was unfamiliar with Holloway before the series, but he’s terrific as the ruggedly charming Jim Ellis, sharing an easy chemistry with the excellent Rachel Hilson as the two work against a characteristically cool-as-hell Keith David. And of course, we’re treated to plenty of Mopar muscle action, scratching my Vanishing Point-sized itch.
Following the first-season finale last week, let’s wrap up this summer’s Car Week with our introduction to Jim as he tears through Arizona’s desert highways with his precocious niece Luna (Adriana Aluna Martinez) in that sharp red-and-black V8-powered ’70 Duster. Continue reading
The White Lotus: Walton Goggins Arrives in Thailand in a Mexico-Print Shirt
Walton Goggins and Aimee Lou Wood on The White Lotus, Episode 3.01: “Same Spirits, New Forms”. Photo by Fabio Lovino.
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Walton Goggins as Rick Hatchett, grouchy “victim of [his] own decisions”
Koh Samui, Thailand, Spring 2024
Series: The White Lotus
Episode: “Same Spirits, New Forms” (Episode 3.01)
Air Date: February 16, 2025
Director: Mike White
Creator: Mike White
Costume Designer: Alex Bovaird
WARNING! Spoilers ahead!
Background
Now that we’re more than a week into summer, I’m revisiting one of my new favorite sources of warm-weather style inspiration: Walton Goggins as the sardonic Rick Hatchett in the latest season of The White Lotus.
We meet Rick alongside his much-younger girlfriend Chelsea (Aimee Lou Wood) as they arrive by boat to the Koh Samui resort, where he quickly earns the ire of the Ratliff family by defiantly refusing to put out his cigarette. In tow: a suitcase full of loud shirts, plenty of emotional baggage, and a simmering grudge tied to resort owner Sritala Hollinger (Lek Patravadi) and her husband Jim (Scott Glenn).
Though Rick’s true motives grow more dangerously apparent as the season unfolds, our early impressions are limited to Chelsea’s casual comments: he doesn’t work much, he’s not quite balding enough to qualify as an “LBH” (loser back home) like her new friend’s all-too-familiar paramour, and her genuine desire that he take better care of himself. But as we quickly learn, Rick is often his own worst enemy. Continue reading
Paul Newman’s Glenurquhart Plaid Suit in The Color of Money
Paul Newman as “Fast Eddie” Felson in The Color of Money (1986)
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Paul Newman as “Fast Eddie” Felson, liquor salesman and former pool hustler
Chicago, Spring 1986
Film: The Color of Money
Release Date: October 17, 1986
Director: Martin Scorsese
Costume Designer: Richard Bruno
Background
Today would have been the 95th birthday of Paul Newman, the acclaimed actor, philanthropist, entrepreneur and motorsports enthusiast. Over his legendary career that spanned more than half a century, Newman’s sole Academy Award for acting recognized his performance in The Color of Money (1986), in which he reprised the role of “Fast Eddie” Felson that he had originated on screen in The Hustler (1961). Continue reading
The Yakuza: Robert Mitchum’s Corduroy Jacket and Tan Turtleneck
Robert Mitchum as Harry Kilmer in The Yakuza (1974)
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Robert Mitchum as Harry Kilmer, tough former detective
Tokyo and Kyoto, Japan, Spring 1974
Film: The Yakuza
Release Date: December 28, 1974
Director: Sydney Pollack
Costume Designer: Dorothy Jeakins
WARNING! Spoilers ahead!
Background
Fall is here in the Northern Hemisphere, and it’s my favorite season for the cooler weather, the changing leaves, and the increased sweaters, corduroys, and tweeds that make their way from the back of the closet back into regular rotation. These autumnal staples get some particularly badass exposure in Sydney Pollack’s 1974 Japanese-set neo-noir The Yakuza as a 57-year-old Robert Mitchum joins Ken Takakura as they fight their way through Honshu from Kyoto to Tokyo in a variety of natty turtlenecks layered under tweed jackets and corduroy suits.
The Yakuza: Robert Mitchum’s Tan Parka and Turtleneck
Robert Mitchum as Harry Kilmer in The Yakuza (1974)
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Robert Mitchum as Harry Kilmer, tough former detective
Tokyo, Spring 1974
Film: The Yakuza
Release Date: December 28, 1974
Director: Sydney Pollack
Costume Designer: Dorothy Jeakins
WARNING! Spoilers ahead!
Background
The unique neo-noir Japanese gangster movie The Yakuza was conceptualized by brothers Paul and Leonard Schrader based on Leonard’s letters to Paul while living in Japan, particularly about the yakuza and the screen presence of Ken Takakura. While Takakura was almost always guaranteed to play a role, the crucial positions of the director and the lead actor—who would portray an aging former detective sent to Japan in service to an old friend—were still in transition.
Early in the pre-production stages, it looked like Robert Aldrich would direct with Lee Marvin in the lead role, until Marvin’s clash with Warner Brothers led to Robert Mitchum taking the role. Continue reading
Mitchum as Marlowe: Striped Summer Suit in The Big Sleep
Robert Mitchum as Philip Marlowe in The Big Sleep (1978)
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Robert Mitchum as Philip Marlowe, American private investigator
London, September 1977
Film: The Big Sleep
Release Date: March 13, 1978
Director: Michael Winner
Costume Designer: Ron Beck
WARNING! Spoilers ahead!
Background
Raymond Chandler’s birthday was 130 years ago today (July 23, 1888), so I’m celebrating the hard-boiled author’s big day with a look at a cinematic portrayal of one of his most enduring creations, cynical private eye Philip Marlowe, as played by Robert Mitchum in this 1978 update of The Big Sleep.
Mitchum as Marlowe: Striped Jacket in The Big Sleep
Robert Mitchum as Philip Marlowe in The Big Sleep (1978)
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Robert Mitchum as Philip Marlowe, American private investigator
London, September 1977
Film: The Big Sleep
Release Date: March 13, 1978
Director: Michael Winner
Costume Designer: Ron Beck
Background
Philip Marlowe is a bold dresser. We learn that from the opening paragraph of Raymond Chandler’s inaugural novel, The Big Sleep, with the description of the detective’s powder blue suit, dark blue underpinnings, and socks with clocks. The rest of the United States may have adopted a somber approach to dressing during the years of the Depression, but Marlowe is an L.A. private eye. He’s gotta turn heads.
Decades after the novel’s publication and Bogie and Bacall sizzled in its first cinematic adaptation, the story was once again slated for the silver screen. Continue reading
Mitchum as Marlowe: Gray Plaid Jacket in The Big Sleep
Robert Mitchum as Philip Marlowe in The Big Sleep (1978)
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Robert Mitchum as Philip Marlowe, American private investigator
London, September 1977
Film: The Big Sleep
Release Date: March 13, 1978
Director: Michael Winner
Costume Designer: Ron Beck
Background
More than three decades after Bogart and Bacall lit up the screen in The Big Sleep, Raymond Chandler’s seminal pulp detective novel was reimagined for the contemporary setting of late 1970s England with ultimate silver screen tough guy Robert Mitchum in the lead role as Raymond Chandler’s cynical private eye, Philip Marlowe.
We catch up here with Marlowe the morning after he takes his case as he joins the police in their investigation of the Sternwood family’s chauffeur, dead in an apparent accident that soon reveals itself to be murder. Following a few leads takes Marlowe to a flat where he encounters blackmailer Joe Brody (Edward Fox), femme fatale Agnes Lozelle (Joan Collins), General Sternwood’s flighty youngest daughter Camilla (Candy Clark), and trigger-happy gunsel Karl Lundgren (Simon Fisher-Turner)… all of whom armed with a handgun but, as Marlowe wryly notes, no brains to boot. Continue reading