Bad Lieutenant: Harvey Keitel’s Gray Nailhead Jacket

Harvey Keitel in Bad Lieutenant (1992)

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Harvey Keitel as “The Lieutenant”, morally corrupt NYPD lieutenant

New York City, Fall 1991

Film: Bad Lieutenant
Release Date: November 20, 1992
Director: Abel Ferrara
Costume Designer: David Sawaryn

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Released 31 years ago today in 1992, Abel Ferrara’s controversial drama Bad Lieutenant features a fearless, uncompromising performance of a lifetime from Harvey Keitel, who replaced Christopher Walken in the titular role as the unnamed detective who regularly neglects his law enforcement duties in favor of a nightmarish spiral of blow, baseball, and broads. Continue reading →

The Big Chill: Tom Berenger’s Convertible Down Jacket

Tom Berenger in The Big Chill (1983)

Vitals

Tom Berenger as Sam Weber, jaded TV star

Beaufort, South Carolina, Fall 1983

Film: The Big Chill
Release Date: September 28, 1983
Director: Lawrence Kasdan
Costume Designer: April Ferry

Background

As I prepare to gather with friends today for our annual Friendsgiving celebration, there’s a cinematic choice that perfectly captures the essence of fall, friendship, and the shared warmth of communal meals.

Despite not being centered around the holiday itself, The Big Chill has earned a place among many as a quintessential “Thanksgiving movie” with its autumnal setting, the camaraderie of old friends reuniting, and the soul-stirring soundtrack creating a nostalgic backdrop reminiscent of the season’s familial gatherings.

Beyond this thematic resonance, the film also offers a visual feast served by costume designer April Ferry’s array of early ’80s threads worn by its ensemble cast. Tom Berenger, Glenn Close, Jeff Goldblum, William Hurt, Kevin Kline, Mary Kay Place, and JoBeth Williams star as college friends who reunite more than a decade after their graduation to mourn one of their group lost to suicide—portrayed by Kevin Costner, who was almost entirely cut from the film. Almost.

I recently had a request to explore Berenger’s style as Sam Weber, who was become arguably the most famous of his college pals, gracing magazine covers as the star of the Magnum, P.I.-like series, J.T. Lancer. Continue reading →

Sunset Boulevard: William Holden’s Mini-Check Sport Jacket and “Dreadful Shirt”

William Holden as Joe Gillis in Sunset Boulevard (1950)

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William Holden as Joe Gillis, struggling screenwriter

Los Angeles, Fall 1949

Film: Sunset Boulevard
Release Date: August 10, 1950
Director: Billy Wilder
Costume Designer: Edith Head

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Noirvember continues with Sunset Boulevard, one of the great films noir that shines a light—or, more appropriately, casts a shadow—on the darker side of Hollywood, a theme popular with contemporary dramas like In a Lonely Place (1950) and The Bad and the Beautiful (1952), with an added verisimilitude through mentions of real studios like 20th Century Fox and Paramount Pictures—who, of course, produced Sunset Boulevard—and cameos from Cecil B. DeMille, Hedda Hopper, and Buster Keaton.

William Holden stars as Joe Gillis, who describes himself in the opening narration as “a movie writer with a couple of B pictures to his credit.” On “the day when it all started,” Joe recounts living in a seedy one-room Hollywood apartment where he owes three months back rent, grinding out two original screenplays a week and fretting that he’s lost his touch. Three payments behind on his Plymouth, his screenplays aren’t selling, and his agent isn’t willing to help, instead insisting that “the finest things on the world have been written on an empty stomach,” though that may be just to get out of having to lend his client the $290 he needs to keep his car. Continue reading →

The Killer: Michael Fassbender’s Aloha Shirt and Bucket Hat in Paris

Michael Fassbender in The Killer (2023)

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Michael Fassbender as “The Killer”, an unnamed professional assassin

Paris, December 2022

Film: The Killer
Release Date: October 27, 2023
Director: David Fincher
Costume Designer: Cate Adams

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

It’s amazing how physically exhausting it can be to do nothing. If you’re unable to endure boredom, this work is not for you…

… begins the narration of the titular hitman portrayed by Michael Fassbender in The Killer, the latest film from director David Fincher. Based on Jacamon and Matz’s French graphic novel series of the same name, this pulpy action thriller—and arguably very dark comedy—centers around an international assassin who is undoubtedly skilled in his deadly craft, though perhaps not quite the infallible expert he builds himself into through his narration. Continue reading →

Barbie: Ryan Gosling’s Mojo Mink Coat as Ken

I’m pleased to again present a guest post contributed by my friend Ken Stauffer, who has written several pieces for BAMF Style previously and chronicles the style of the Ocean’s film series (and beyond!) on his excellent Instagram account, @oceansographer.

Ryan Gosling as Ken in Barbie (2023)

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Ryan Gosling as Ken, whose job is just beach

Barbie Land, Summer 2023

Film: Barbie
Release Date: July 21, 2023
Director: Greta Gerwig
Costume Designer: Jacqueline Durran
Ryan Gosling’s Costumer: Mark Avery

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Happy birthday to Ryan Gosling, who turns 43 today! The actor/producer/director/occasional musician/former Mickey Mouse Club Member had a hell of a summer with the release of Barbie, in which he brought Ken—the world’s second most famous doll—to life.

In addition to being the highest grossing film of 2023, Barbie may also be the funniest. What had the potential to be just another blatant cash grab based on popular IP turned into a masterpiece of absurd comedy and proto-feminism thanks to the inspired direction of Greta Gerwig. By fully committing to Ken’s goofy, childlike nature, Gosling managed to steal scene after scene in a movie filled with hilarious performances. Continue reading →

Humphrey Bogart in The Desperate Hours

Humphrey Bogart in The Desperate Hours (1955)

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Humphrey Bogart as Glenn Griffin, menacing fugitive

Indianapolis, Fall 1955

Film: The Desperate Hours
Release Date: October 5, 1955
Director: William Wyler
Costume Designer: Edith Head

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Noirvember continues with The Desperate Hours, a 1955 drama that was Humphrey Bogart’s penultimate silver screen performance. Bogie remains significantly associated with film noir, thanks to genre-defining movies like High Sierra (1941), The Maltese Falcon (1941), The Big Sleep (1946), Key Largo (1948), and In a Lonely Place (1950).

The New York-born actor rose to prominence playing villains, perhaps most notably his breakthrough role of snarling Dillinger-esque gangster Duke Mantee in the stage and screen productions of The Petrified Forest. As exemplified by his masterful but hardly glamorous performance in movies like The Treasure of the Sierra Madre (1948), Bogart never let his popularity get in the way of darker roles—even after winning the Academy Award for Best Actor for The African Queen (1951).

Adapted by Joseph Hayes from his own novel and play of the same name (itself loosely based on true events), The Desperate Hours cast Bogart as the dangerous Glenn Griffin, the leader of a trio of three escaped convicts who seek refuge by forcing their way into the suburban Indiana home of Daniel (Frederic March) and Ellie Hilliard (Martha Scott). Continue reading →

La Piscine: Alain Delon’s Ivory Open-Knit Sweater and Lee Jeans

Alain Delon in La Piscine (1969)

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Alain Delon as Jean-Paul Leroy, moody ad agency writer

French Riviera, Summer 1968

Film: The Swimming Pool
(French title: La Piscine)
Release Date: January 3, 1969
Director: Jacques Deray
Costume Designer: André Courrèges

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

Happy birthday to French screen and style icon Alain Delon, born November 8, 1935. One of Delon’s most popular films is the steamy 1969 thriller La Piscine, which reunited him on screen with former partner Romy Schneider.

La Piscine (released in English as The Swimming Pool) centers around the dangerous passion and possessiveness between four people spending their summer vacations at the same Côte d’Azur villa. Continue reading →

Leave Her to Heaven: Cornel Wilde’s Brown Plaid Flannel Shirt

Cornel Wilde in Leave Her to Heaven (1945)

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Cornel Wilde as Richard “Dick” Harland, idealistic novelist

Northern Maine, August 1942

Film: Leave Her to Heaven
Release Date: December 25, 1945
Director: John M. Stahl
Costume Designer: Kay Nelson

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

I began Noirvember this month by highlighting a costume from one of the rare classic examples of  “color noir”—which is exactly what it sounds like, a crime-centered drama from the 1940s and ’50s that includes many of the same themes and techniques as the shadowy film noir but photographed in full color, rather than the typical black-and-white.

Arguably the first major example of color noir is Leave Her to Heaven, widely released on Christmas 1945 and starring Cornel Wilde opposite the ravishing Gene Tierney, whose performance resulted in the actress’ only Academy Award nomination. Tierney died 32 years ago today on November 6, 1991. Continue reading →

Arrested Development: GOB’s Powder-Blue Sports Coat

Will Arnett as GOB Bluth on Arrested Development (Episode 1.01: “Pilot”)

Vitals

Will Arnett as George Oscar “GOB” Bluth II, magician (part-time)

Orange County, California, Fall 2003

Series: Arrested Development
Episodes:
– “Pilot” (Episode 1.01, dir. Anthony Russo & Joe Russo, aired 11/2/2003)
– “Altar Egos” (Episode 1.17, dir. Jay Chandrasekhar, aired 3/17/2004)
Creator: Mitchell Hurwitz
Costume Designer: Katie Sparks

WARNING! Spoilers ahead!

Background

TV audiences first met the Bluth family 20 years ago this week when Arrested Development premiered on November 2, 2003. As Ron Howard narrates over each episode’s opening credits, it’s the story of a wealthy family who lost everything and the one son who had no choice but to keep them all together… it’s arrested development.

The son in question is Michael (Jason Bateman), arguably the most responsible of the four Bluth siblings, though it could be argued his sensibility extends into self-righteousness as he seeks to maintain a sense of normalcy while raising his son, the anxious George Michael Bluth (Michael Cera)—named after his father and grandfather and not the singer-songwriter.

In addition to Michael, the avaricious George Sr. (Jeffrey Tambor) and Lucille (Jessica Walter) also raised the absurd GOB (Will Arnett), the spoiled Lindsay (Portia di Rossi), and the sheltered Buster (Tony Hale).

Like his fellow “eldest son” Connor Roy, GOB—pronounced “jobe”, though not everyone in-universe has received the message—harbors some resentment that his smarter and more ambitious little brother has been tapped to succeed their corrupt father’s footsteps in taking over the family’s real estate firm. Instead, GOB is left to defend his magic tricks illusions against his family’s disapproval and mockery. Continue reading →

Desert Fury: Burt Lancaster’s Colorful Noir Cowboy Style

Burt Lancaster in Desert Fury (1947)

Vitals

Burt Lancaster as Tom Hanson, affable deputy sheriff

Nevada, Spring 1947

Film: Desert Fury
Release Date: August 15, 1947
Director: Lewis Allen
Costume Designer: Edith Head

Background

Born 110 years ago today on November 2, 1913, Burt Lancaster’s connection to film noir begins with his screen debut in The Killers (1946), followed by performances in Brute Force (1947), I Walk Alone (1947), Sorry, Wrong Number (1948), Criss Cross (1949), and Sweet Smell of Success (1957)—to name just a few of his noir credentials.

While the existence of “color noir” may sound contradictory, there were a handful of films made during the ’40s and ’50s that have been qualified as such, including the 1947 drama Desert Fury which maintains its noir techniques and themes but with lush Technicolor cinematography as opposed to the shadowy black-and-white typically associated with the style.

Let’s kick off #Noirvember in post-World War II Nevada, where Lancaster’s friendly Tom Hanson takes a break from serving as deputy sheriff in the fictional town of Chickawalla to practice his equestrian abilities. Continue reading →